• Coming Back From Injury
  • Get Trip-Fit Fast
  • Systems Wall and Symmetrical Training
  • Coaching Climbing - How To Train Juniors with Care and Caution
  • Grip Trainers - Gimmicks, or Worth the Money?
  • Hangboarding for Endurance: Not Just for Power
  • Simulation Training: How to Do a Move You Can't Do
  • Planning a Year's Climbing
  • Portable Training Rigs - How to Stay Fit on the Go
  • How to Keep Your Job and Family and Still Climb at Your Limit
  • Suspension Training for Rock Climbing
  • Eat Fat, Climb Harder - The Ketogenic Diet
  • Witness the Mental Fitness: Set Thought Aside to Improve Performance
  • Mental Training Made Simple
  • Counterintuitive Climbing Tips to Change Your Game - Part 2
  • Endurance Training Tips for Winter
  • Five Counterintuitive Climbing Tips to Change Your Game - Part 1
  • Staying Power - How to Last All Day at the Crag
  • Attack and Defend - Tips for Effective Resting
  • Change Up - Plug the Gaps In Your Strength Training This Winter
  • Training While Injured
  • The Hard Way, Easier: How to Cope with Redpoint Nerves
  • Climbing Literacy - Get Better Instantly by Reading Routes
  • The Numbers Game - How to Use Your Age to Your Advantage
  • Injury-Free Bouldering: 15 Tips to Keep You Healthy and Strong
  • Injury-Free Boarding: 14 Training Tips to Save Your Fingers
  • The Truth About Caffeine and Climbing
  • Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Five Strategies to Sharpen Concentration and Climb Better
  • Five Ways to Get Better Without Training
  • Beat the Burnout: Only Ondra Should Train Like Ondra
  • Effective Gym Training Strategies (for Route Climbing)
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard?
  • Map Out a Plan with the Radar System
  • Managing the Fear of Falling
  • Projecting 101 – 6 Tips For Sending
  • Slowing the Pump Clock - Three Strategies to Prevent the Pump
  • Training on the Go
  • How to Train for Compression
  • Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • How to Dyno
  • General Conditioning for Climbers
  • Transitioning from Gym to Crag
  • Staying Strong to Perform Your Best All Season
  • How to Lose Weight for Climbing
  • Building a Better Climber: Final Phase - Peaking
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 7 - Power Endurance Training
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 6 - Endurance II
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 5 - Strength and Power II
  • The Training Effect - Steve House and Scott Johnston
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 4 - Power Endurance
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 3 - Strength Training
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 2 - Low-Intensity Endurance
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 1 - Conditioning Phase
  • Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Gutbusters - Core Exercises for Rock Climbing
  • Rest ... or Else
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • Crank Like a Russian - How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Mentally Train
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Training While Hungry
  • How To Use Microcycles
  • How to Improve Slab Technique
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • How to Use a Hangboard
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Ultimate Strength
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • How To Recover On Route
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Training With an Injury
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
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    Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?


    Does cardiovascular cross-training (running, cycling, etc.) help climbing? I’ve heard Lynn Hill was a devoted runner, but others say that running has adverse side effects like building up too much leg mass. What’s the word?

    —Patrick Bagley Boston, MA

    Specificity is the number-one training principle for climbing, and laps on routes will always produce more specific endurance gains for climbing than hitting the pavement. However, many climbers lack the underlying aerobic fitness base that is essential for longer routes, especially multi-pitch. Cross training provides a great base for climbing endurance, and enables you to arrive at the base of the crag in a fit state after a long walk-in. Those with a decent level of cardiovascular (CV) fitness can also recover more quickly between bursts of effort within a workout or between workouts, so even boulderers should take note.

    That said, it is impossible to reach your potential in climbing if you are training to excel as a triathlete. Moderation is the key, and you must consider the type, duration, intensity and timing of CV training. Running is the best choice, as cycling is more prone to building up leg muscles. Swimming can be excellent for rehabilitating climbing injuries, but it will drain your upper-body muscles unless you have extremely good technique and take it easy. 

    Regarding the intensity and timing of CV training, remember that our energy reserves are finite. If you run flat-out for an hour on the same morning as you are intending to climb, you are poaching energy that might have fuelled your climbing session. Similarly, if you run full pelt after climbing, then you are stealing from your recovery. It is unlikely that climbers ever need to do maximum intensity or duration CV work, but if you insist, then do it during rest phases or perhaps during pre-training “build-up” phases. 

    CV training sessions should consist of 70 to 80 percent effort for durations of, say, 25 to 35 minutes. Consider the exact nature of the climbing sessions that are clustered around the CV training. For example, bouldering or strength-training sessions are particularly prone to being sabotaged by CV work, since it is impossible to train power and endurance simultaneously. So if your goal is to get strong, then keep your run light and brief, or don’t run at all. The best approach is to jog with 30 to 40 percent effort for no more than 20 minutes to promote recovery by encouraging blood flow and flushing toxins out of the muscles. By contrast, if you are climbing endurance-based routes, then a medium-intensity run may provide the perfect complement. 

    An additional consideration is how fit you are in the first place. Someone with no CV fitness may be destroyed by 15 minutes of running, whereas a hardened enduro-athlete won’t even be warmed up. This is not a green light for the aerobic junkies to ignore the previous advice, as it is you guys who are most prone to over-cooking it. Use a heart-rate monitor and a stopwatch if you don’t trust yourself. The principle behind using a heart-rate monitor is to enable you to adhere to training zones which determine the intensity of exercise. For example, recovery sessions are conducted at 70 percent of your maximum heart rate, and optimum aerobic training sessions are conducted at 80 percent. Anything above this is starting to tease the anaerobic threshold, and is too intense for the purpose. The percentages are calculated by taking the difference between your resting pulse and your maximum heart rate. Resting pulse should be taken first thing in the morning, using the heart-rate monitor, usually for a period of one minute. Maximum heart rate is calculated by going flat-out, usually for a period of four or five minutes, although there are numerous methods. See the instructions on the heart-rate monitor for further guidelines. Remember, aerobic training for climbing does not need to be a science—a little discipline and common sense should be all it takes to get the balance right.

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