• Coming Back From Injury
  • Get Trip-Fit Fast
  • Systems Wall and Symmetrical Training
  • Coaching Climbing - How To Train Juniors with Care and Caution
  • Grip Trainers - Gimmicks, or Worth the Money?
  • Hangboarding for Endurance: Not Just for Power
  • Simulation Training: How to Do a Move You Can't Do
  • Planning a Year's Climbing
  • Portable Training Rigs - How to Stay Fit on the Go
  • How to Keep Your Job and Family and Still Climb at Your Limit
  • Suspension Training for Rock Climbing
  • Eat Fat, Climb Harder - The Ketogenic Diet
  • Witness the Mental Fitness: Set Thought Aside to Improve Performance
  • Mental Training Made Simple
  • Counterintuitive Climbing Tips to Change Your Game - Part 2
  • Endurance Training Tips for Winter
  • Five Counterintuitive Climbing Tips to Change Your Game - Part 1
  • Staying Power - How to Last All Day at the Crag
  • Attack and Defend - Tips for Effective Resting
  • Change Up - Plug the Gaps In Your Strength Training This Winter
  • Training While Injured
  • The Hard Way, Easier: How to Cope with Redpoint Nerves
  • Climbing Literacy - Get Better Instantly by Reading Routes
  • The Numbers Game - How to Use Your Age to Your Advantage
  • Injury-Free Bouldering: 15 Tips to Keep You Healthy and Strong
  • Injury-Free Boarding: 14 Training Tips to Save Your Fingers
  • The Truth About Caffeine and Climbing
  • Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Five Strategies to Sharpen Concentration and Climb Better
  • Five Ways to Get Better Without Training
  • Beat the Burnout: Only Ondra Should Train Like Ondra
  • Effective Gym Training Strategies (for Route Climbing)
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard?
  • Map Out a Plan with the Radar System
  • Managing the Fear of Falling
  • Projecting 101 – 6 Tips For Sending
  • Slowing the Pump Clock - Three Strategies to Prevent the Pump
  • Training on the Go
  • How to Train for Compression
  • Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • How to Dyno
  • General Conditioning for Climbers
  • Transitioning from Gym to Crag
  • Staying Strong to Perform Your Best All Season
  • How to Lose Weight for Climbing
  • Building a Better Climber: Final Phase - Peaking
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 7 - Power Endurance Training
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 6 - Endurance II
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 5 - Strength and Power II
  • The Training Effect - Steve House and Scott Johnston
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 4 - Power Endurance
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 3 - Strength Training
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 2 - Low-Intensity Endurance
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 1 - Conditioning Phase
  • Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Gutbusters - Core Exercises for Rock Climbing
  • Rest ... or Else
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • Crank Like a Russian - How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Mentally Train
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Training While Hungry
  • How To Use Microcycles
  • How to Improve Slab Technique
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • How to Use a Hangboard
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Ultimate Strength
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • How To Recover On Route
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Training With an Injury
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
    Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher Send Zodiac (VI 5.13d) on El Cap
    Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher Send Zodiac (VI 5.13d) on El Cap
    Whipper of the Month
    Weekend Whipper: Alastair McDowell's Los Indignados (M7) Screamer
    Weekend Whipper: Alastair McDowell's Los Indignados (M7) Screamer


    How to Dyno


    Alex Megos deadpointing on his new route Geocache (5.14d). Photo by Claudia Ziegler.The ability to move dynamically is a critical skill for hard bouldering and sport climbing, yet many climbers struggle to “bounce and slap,” even when that is what the move demands. A static style has its place on easy terrain, or even difficult sections if the protection is marginal. However, you will be pouring away energy if you lock off and slow-mo to every hold on cruxes and sustained sequences, and you’ll place unnecessary strain on your tendons.

    It can be difficult for climbers who have engrained a static style to re-program themselves to move dynamically, but have faith. It can be done. My first advice is to boulder more, and to redpoint hard projects rather than exclusively climb onsight. My next recommendation is to be sure that fear of falling isn’t encouraging your static style. If so, address this fear as a priority. Once you have done that, you should analyze your movements via video feedback or the constructive criticism of your partners.

    Meanwhile, you can make strides with the following supportive exercises. Don’t worry too much about full-blown dynos as these rarely crop up unless you’re a hardened boulderer. Instead, take a detailed look at the deadpoint sequence, which essentially provides the blueprint for dealing with all hard climbing situations.



    Deadpointing is the term coined to describe reaching (or “slapping”) for a hold at speed. In contrast to dynos, which you use to overcome long reaches, deadpointing is often required when you are either too weak or too pumped to hang onto a hold long enough to reach the next hold statically. Once you master the technique, you can start using it strategically to climb harder and more efficiently.

    With deadpointing, you usually remain on one or both of the “take-off” footholds. Aim to catch the target hold precisely at the weightless moment (or “deadpoint”) at the top of the move. If you let go of the lower hold and reach for the target hold too early, or move too slowly, you won’t achieve sufficient height; but if you hold on too long, you’ll lose momentum and “drop out” (i.e.: you will be travelling downward by the time you catch the hold).


    1. Commit

    Don’t waste time attempting to static a move. There is no such thing as a half static/half dynamic move. Do one or the other.

    2. Set Your Feet

    Make a quick check that your feet are in the best position and don’t delay. On longer deadpoint moves, you will need to generate upward thrust from your feet; consider this when selecting footholds. Placing one foot higher than the other usually works best. If using both feet feels unbalanced, consider taking one foot off and flagging.

    3. Generate Momentum

    You can crank up momentum three different ways. For all three methods the key is to let go with the lower hand approximately two thirds of the way through the pull-up. A small bounce can work well before you go for the move, but don’t bounce more than once.

    A) Hinge deadpoint. Use this method when you are moving to a hold directly overhead.Straighten the arms and lean back from the wall by bending at the waist like a hinge, then thrust the torso inwards and jump to the hold.

    B) Pendulum deadpoint. For diagonal or sideways moves, swing the hips like a pendulum and then “flick” your hand to the hold.

    C) Rock-over deadpoint. If there’s a good high foothold, rock up onto it at speed. Use the hinge method to generate additional momentum from your torso.

    4. Maintain contact

    Be accurate with your fingers, especially on pockets and slopers, which may only have one specific good part. Your hips should finish vertically below the target hold—too far in and you’ll swing out after grabbing the hold. Too far out and you’ll miss the hold. You need to be stationary as you hit the hold. When using small footholds that are positioned low, “drill” your toes and tense your hamstrings and core muscles at the precise moment you latch the hold—think “feet” at the same time as you’re thinking “hands.” Don’t be too quick to blame lack of core strength if your feet are coming off, as lack of coordination is nearly always the culprit. Down-turned shoes help. If you’re still having difficulty sticking the target handhold, try cheating into position by using extra holds when climbing indoors or a power-spot from a partner if climbing outside. This will help you build confidence in the move and enable your body to map into position.

    5. Additional exercises

    For extra practice in moving dynamically, try double-handed deadpoints on a campus board with your feet on foot rungs. Alternatively, clapping push-ups and star jumps (start squatting then jump and extend your arms and legs out to the sides) will teach you timing and get you moving more explosively.


    This article was published in Rock and Ice, No. 222 (November 2014).


    Reader's Commentary:

    Don't want to use Facebook, but still want to comment? We have you covered:

    Add Your Comments to this article: