• Coming Back From Injury
  • Get Trip-Fit Fast
  • Systems Wall and Symmetrical Training
  • Coaching Climbing - How To Train Juniors with Care and Caution
  • Grip Trainers - Gimmicks, or Worth the Money?
  • Hangboarding for Endurance: Not Just for Power
  • Simulation Training: How to Do a Move You Can't Do
  • Planning a Year's Climbing
  • Portable Training Rigs - How to Stay Fit on the Go
  • How to Keep Your Job and Family and Still Climb at Your Limit
  • Suspension Training for Rock Climbing
  • Eat Fat, Climb Harder - The Ketogenic Diet
  • Witness the Mental Fitness: Set Thought Aside to Improve Performance
  • Mental Training Made Simple
  • Counterintuitive Climbing Tips to Change Your Game - Part 2
  • Endurance Training Tips for Winter
  • Five Counterintuitive Climbing Tips to Change Your Game - Part 1
  • Staying Power - How to Last All Day at the Crag
  • Attack and Defend - Tips for Effective Resting
  • Change Up - Plug the Gaps In Your Strength Training This Winter
  • Training While Injured
  • The Hard Way, Easier: How to Cope with Redpoint Nerves
  • Climbing Literacy - Get Better Instantly by Reading Routes
  • The Numbers Game - How to Use Your Age to Your Advantage
  • Injury-Free Bouldering: 15 Tips to Keep You Healthy and Strong
  • Injury-Free Boarding: 14 Training Tips to Save Your Fingers
  • The Truth About Caffeine and Climbing
  • Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Five Strategies to Sharpen Concentration and Climb Better
  • Five Ways to Get Better Without Training
  • Beat the Burnout: Only Ondra Should Train Like Ondra
  • Effective Gym Training Strategies (for Route Climbing)
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard?
  • Map Out a Plan with the Radar System
  • Managing the Fear of Falling
  • Projecting 101 – 6 Tips For Sending
  • Slowing the Pump Clock - Three Strategies to Prevent the Pump
  • Training on the Go
  • How to Train for Compression
  • Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • How to Dyno
  • General Conditioning for Climbers
  • Transitioning from Gym to Crag
  • Staying Strong to Perform Your Best All Season
  • How to Lose Weight for Climbing
  • Building a Better Climber: Final Phase - Peaking
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 7 - Power Endurance Training
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 6 - Endurance II
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 5 - Strength and Power II
  • The Training Effect - Steve House and Scott Johnston
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 4 - Power Endurance
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 3 - Strength Training
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 2 - Low-Intensity Endurance
  • Building a Better Climber: Phase 1 - Conditioning Phase
  • Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Gutbusters - Core Exercises for Rock Climbing
  • Rest ... or Else
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • Crank Like a Russian - How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Mentally Train
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Training While Hungry
  • How To Use Microcycles
  • How to Improve Slab Technique
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • How to Use a Hangboard
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Ultimate Strength
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • How To Recover On Route
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Training With an Injury
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
    Joe Kinder On the First Ascent of Bone Tomahawk (5.14d/5.15a)
    Joe Kinder On the First Ascent of Bone Tomahawk (5.14d/5.15a)
    Whipper of the Month
    Weekend Whipper: Alastair McDowell's Los Indignados (M7) Screamer
    Weekend Whipper: Alastair McDowell's Los Indignados (M7) Screamer

    Staying Strong to Perform Your Best All Season


    Ethan Pringle, fresh off his ascent of La Reina Mora (5.14d), stayed strong for the second ascent two months later (shown here) of Jumbo Love (5.15b). [Photo: Spenser Tang-Smith] Maintaining performance for prolonged periods can be tricky. As climbers, we often emerge from the gym at the start of the season packed full of power but unsure how to keep it. The more you trade rock for plastic, the more you’ll discover that while your endurance and technique improve on real rock, strength and power will diminish. This is particularly the case when doing a lot of onsighting, especially on trad. When you’re redpointing, after a few tries, the individual moves will be too easy to allow you to maintain power. Even boulderers can find that climbing on real rock will result in a loss of raw pulling power—unless you take steps to combat this seemingly inevitable depletion.

    Part of the problem stems from the random nature of outdoor climbing, which can make it difficult to plan training. Additionally, toward the end of the climbing season most dedicated climbers are perilously close to burning out and/or getting injured. It’s easy to underestimate how mentally and emotionally exhausting it can be to continue to force yourself to climb hard. Many climbers find they just feel like resting as the season winds down.

    When considering how to approach training in a way that allows you to maintain performance long term, the pertinent question becomes: How can I design my midweek training and nutrition to enhance my outdoor climbing goals?


    The main point of in-season training is to maximize the quality of midweek sessions and avoid doing anything that will place massive demands on recovery.Short sessions with good rests between climbs and sets are the order of the day. Clearly, requirements will vary from climber to climber but most should focus on strength. Sport and trad climbers should boulder or do hangboard and campus sessions. You can finish with a small amount of endurance, such as a few circuits or laps on routes just to keep things topped up, but only if you feel there is a deficit to address. Boulderers are advised to go for campus and hangboard sessions midweek or to use a steep woody or system board to maximize strength and power.

    If you are trying a project (sport climbing or bouldering), the best approach for midweek training is to simulate the proj in your sessions. For example, do replica boulder problems, or laps on routes that are a similar length and style, or foot-on campus laps for the same number of moves as your project. (Note that toward the end of a major siege, you may detect that your body needs a change from your project as opposed to more of the same.)

    Regarding microcycle (weekly) structure, if you climb on the weekend, two midweek sessions should be optimal for most. However, if you pushed hard on both weekend days and plan to do the same the following weekend, then one midweek session is preferable. If you’re going for two sessions, the first option is to choose Tuesday and Thursday, creating single rest days between training and climbing days, but in that case it’s vital to make Thursday’s session very light. The other option is to train consecutively on Tuesday and Wednesday, leaving two rest days before the weekend. Experiment with both, but the two-rest-day strategy will probably have greater benefit, especially if you do strength on Tuesday and light endurance on Wednesday.


    Cycling your nutrition around your climbing is a key strategy for sustaining performance throughout the season. There are many possibilities here and the precise formula will vary according to the goals of the individual; however, the main theme is to eat well for a day or two after a climbing session to promote recovery, then eat lightly during the week until your next climbing day/s to maintain low body weight. You shouldn’t go for large fluctuations by gorging yourself and then starving. Just eat normally for a day or two, and then restrict calories slightly. Another approach is to monitor your diet on a Mesocycle (monthly cycle) and have a period of, say, two to four weeks where you train hard and eat well, followed by a sending phase of similar length where you maintain a slightly lower weight. Repeat this process as required.

    This strategy works well if you’re gearing up for a specific trip, but less well for the weekend climber. The modern approach for getting lean is to cut down on complex carbohydrates and sugars and to eat protein-rich foods with plenty of green vegetables and salad combined with high-quality omega fats from foods such as oily fish, avocados and nuts. For the days or periods when you’re eating for recovery, avoid highly refined carbs such as bread or white pasta, and instead favor low-glycemic-index carb sources such as sweet potato and quinoa.

    Supportive Strategies:

    Make sure to get good sleep, especially toward the end of a long, demanding season. It’s also vital to keep up your antagonist exercises (push-ups and reverse wrist curls or rubber-band extensions) at least twice a week to stave off injury. On the same note, consider getting a weekly sports massage and doing yoga or stretching sessions.


    This article was previously published in Rock and Ice issue 228 (August 2015).

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