Weekend Whipper: Ice Fall Wrecking Ball

13-Jan-2017


Zach, of Idaho, breaks the golden rule of ice climbing: do not fall. When his tools pop, he takes a factor 1+ whipper onto a single ice screw, and smashes through a thin shell of ice into a hole, coming to a stop below the belay.

"I'm glad that screw held!" Zach tells Rock and Ice. "It was probably a good 20 feet to the bottom [of the hole], so I'm glad the screw saved me from a hard landing, as well as my partner from having to do a crevasse-style rescue."

The ice screw, a 16-centimeter Black Diamond Express, caught the fall and was "amazingly" undamaged, Zach says. His placement was solid: "I placed it at a slight upward angle, and [the screw] was sunk to the hanger, which minimized the bending stress [watch: How to Place an Ice Screw]. The ice was also pretty hard.

"The ice around the screw was slightly fractured from the fall," he adds, "but only a few small cracks radiated from the screw."

Except for a couple of cuts on his face from flying ice, Zach was uninjured in the fall.

"I'll have to come back under better conditions and renewed strength and confidence!" he says.

Happy Friday the 13th and climb safe out there this weekend!

 

Watch last week's Weekend Whipper: Epic Splat at the Vault

 

 

Got a whip of your own? E-mail Rock and Ice online editor at hcarpenter@bigstonepub.com.

Weekend Whipper: Max Factor (5.11c), Vedauwoo, Wyoming
Weekend Whipper: Max Factor (5.11c), Vedauwoo, Wyoming
Weekend Whipper: Elephant Man (5.13a), Reimers Ranch, Texas
Weekend Whipper: Elephant Man (5.13a), Reimers Ranch, Texas
Weekend Whipper: Famous Last Words - Figjam (5.10b), Ontario
Weekend Whipper: Famous Last Words - Figjam (5.10b), Ontario
Weekend Whipper: Alastair McDowell's Los Indignados (M7) Screamer
Weekend Whipper: Alastair McDowell's Los Indignados (M7) Screamer
Weekend Whipper: Guppie (5.12b), El Potrero Chico, Mexico
Weekend Whipper: Guppie (5.12b), El Potrero Chico, Mexico
Weekend Whipper: Hellion (5.13c), Ten Sleep, Wyoming
Weekend Whipper: Hellion (5.13c), Ten Sleep, Wyoming
Weekend Whipper: Yellow Stone (7a+/b 5.12a/b), Moroieni, Romania
Weekend Whipper: Yellow Stone (7a+/b 5.12a/b), Moroieni, Romania
Weekend Whipper: Ground Fall Off Heresy (5.11c), Smith Rock
Weekend Whipper: Ground Fall Off Heresy (5.11c), Smith Rock
Weekend Whipper: Chris Sharma's 100-foot Pont d’Arc Deep Water Solo
Weekend Whipper: Chris Sharma's 100-foot Pont d’Arc Deep Water Solo

 

 

 

[ WHIPPER COUNT: 212 ]

 

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C A commented on 19-Jan-2017 08:31 PM3 out of 5 stars
Serves you right for being a dick to the guy who told you not to park in a "no parking" area. Next time you'll be towed. Glad you're ok.

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