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David Sharp HAD to Die

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David Sharp HAD to Die
People die on Mt. Everest. That is a fact. In fact until the last few years the statistic was that for every four people to make the summit, one would die. In recent times that number has grown to one in twenty.

Last season brought the tragic death of David Sharp and the controversy of climbers not helping a fellow climber in need to the forefront of media institutions around the world. Perhaps this is because people never really knew what went on at 28,000 ft., or they never really thought about it until the media picked up the story.

I am not going to go in to detail about what happened to David Sharp. By now, the world over knows this story and a year later it still lingers in the minds and bemoans an outpouring of controversy. Everyone has an opinion. I will leave it at that.

What I would like to mention is that David Sharp has not been the only climber to be left behind. It has happened before and more than likely it will happen again.

Case in point, EverestNews has published THIS account of a tragedy occuring in 1998 involving famed russian climber Serguei Anatolievich and his wife known simply as Fran. Upon their successful summit of Mt. Everest, while they were beginning to descend, Fran ran in to trouble at the First Step. Her husband had meanwhile already descended down to Camp and was awaiting her return. That return would never come.

A team of Sherpas, as well as other climbers heading up Everest, tried to assist Fran, but at those heights there was nothing that could be done. So they left. Serguei meanwhile, upon hearing that his wife was in trouble, made a futile attempt at trying to make a high altitude rescue–only to perish himself. They are now thought of as the “The Romeo and Juliet” of Everest.

The outcry to this story was pretty much nonexistent from the media, but as the following comment suggests–their was definately some controversy being stirred up at Everest Basecamp.

Regarding Fran’s situation, many looked the other way. This can be seen from a brief comment on EverestNews:

“Fran died because she could not make it down. She froze to death on Everest. For example, one climber was reported to have said, “For God’s sake it is an American” to which his expedition leader replied, “it is none of our business”.”

As mentioned, David Sharp was not the first person to die that had been left behind. Many people within the climbing community know that if you get in to trouble high on Mt. Everest or K2 or any of the other big 8,000 meter peaks, more than likely your final resting place will be on the mountain.

The coverage that the David Sharp tragedy experienced was devastating in the beginning. Experienced mountaineers, some of who had done this their whole careers, were now being questioned about their ethics and whether or not the summit of Everest was more important than a human life.

Resoundingly the answer was no, but they exclaimed that at 28,000 when you are struggling yourself to survive in the Death Zone–if you try to help, you risk dying yourself.

The Public could not believe what they were hearing. How could they leave someone to die?

If you are interested in getting a refresher course on some of the arguments that have taken place over this issue, I will direct you to two articles that should sum it up pretty well. The first is called “Mountain Ethics and Everest” and was written by Keith Woodford on May 26, 2006. Keith was the leader of a 1977 Expedition to Mt. Everest from his native country of New Zealand.

The second article comes by way of Jake Norton. Jake is a two time summiter of Everest, as well as a full time mountain guide, professional speaker, and Photographer. He was also the second person on the scene when the legendary George Mallory's body was discovered back in 1999. His article, “The Ethics of Everest” conflicts slightly with the previous article. Both have been to the same place, experienced a lot of the same ordeals, yet they both have differing viewpoints.

So, who is correct?

My next statement may come as a shock to many in the climbing community, but do not judge this statement, or take it out of context–without first understanding the reasonings behind it, which follow.

David Sharp had to die on Everest.

That is right, David Sharp in death is currently saving lives. If he knew that, before he tragically died, I am pretty positive he wouldn’t have changed a thing.

You see, David Sharp was a teacher. A Mathmatician to be exact. He dedicated his personal life to helping people succeed and in a way, his dedication to helping people succeed is still taking place today.

Two stories pop to mind to hold this statement true. Both come from this season’s Everest Expeditions. The first involves Maxut and Vissily’s recent summit of Everest. These two became two of the first seven to summit this season–but they ran in to trouble. Upon hearing about the trouble, a team of Sherpas went up and offered and gave support for the two to be able to return.

The second one involves climber Denis Urubko, who nonchalently gave up his attempt on a summit at Dhaulagiri to help a fellow climber in need.

Both of these situations are important for a couple of reasons: 1) I believe that people are actually thinking of the outcry that followed David’s tragic death on Everest and the ensuing controversy and 2) After all the media attention David’s death recieved, many are taking another look at their own personal ethics.

In previous years, a climber that didn’t make the Everest summit was not newsworthy. In 2007, if a climber doesn’t make the summit, but in turn helps to save another's life, it now garners national and international attention.

In closing, David Sharp’s death, as tragic as it was, has now put in to place a foundation for some much needed thought and discussion on the Ethics of Climbing–not only Everest, but every other mountain in this world as well.

Don’t get me wrong, tragedy will still strike on Everest. People will undoubtedly still die in the Death Zone, but make no doubt about it, people will rethink their actions before making a life or death decision involving someone else’s life and perhaps… just perhaps….someone will be saved by the thoughts that David Sharp’s death has brought to this world.





By: Jason A. Hendricks


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