Forgotten First Ascents: “The Crystal Snake,” Nupste, Nepal, 2003
Twin brothers Damian and Willie Benegas, world-class Argentine alpine guides and mountaineering phenoms, sent this spectacular ice line on the North Face of Nuptse in 2003.
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Forgotten First Ascents: South Face, (Exum) Minaret Peak, Iran, 1998
Hooman Apri, Abbas Jafari, Jean Weiss and Al Read put up a new route on Minaret Peak and summited nearby Alam-Kuh (15,906 feet) in 1998.
Forgotten First Ascents: “Nature and Technology,” Greenland, 2000
This 800-meter line was first climbed by Italians Alberto Zucchetti and Paolo Paglino and Englishman Graham Austick.
Forgotten First Ascents: “Not So Auto,” Monk’s Cowl, South Africa, 2003
This 400-meter 5.12b tracks a line up one of South Africa’s most iconic (and remote) spires, Monk’s Cowl.
Forgotten First Ascents: Koh-e-Maghrebi, Afghanistan, 2005
Spaniards Luis Miguel Soriano and David Cejudo Fernandez summited this peak in the Wakhan Corridor in 2005, one of the first virgin summits climbed in Afghanistan since the 1979 Soviet invasion.
Forgotten First Ascents: “The Bombadorj Arete,” Mongolia, 2002
In 2002 Steve Schneider, Heather Baer and Shawn Chartrand tackled this 1,600-foot line, then the hardest route in Mongolia.
Forgotten First Ascents: “Malaria,” Rhumsiki Tower, Cameroon, 2007
In “Forgotten First Ascents,” Owen Clarke is digging up cool climbs from the past and talking to the climbers who made them happen. This week: Malaria, Rhumsiki Tower, Cameroon, 2007.
Forgotten Hero – Frank Sacherer 1940-1978
Search Wikipedia for “Frank Sacherer,” and you’ll find … nothing, at least not in English. Google him and the first listing is often “Find a Grave,” which tells you that he was born in 1940, was a theoretical physicist and a Yosemite rock climber who died in a mountaineering accident. Simply put, Frank Sacherer was one of the fathers of free climbing.
Permanent Access Secured at New San Luis Valley Sport Climbing Area
San Luis Valley Climbers Alliance and Access Fund ask for further support
The Choss Pile: The Evolution of Climbing
Tied to the train of progress, climbers are always chasing harder climbs and higher grades. The evolution of climbing is a constant dance between new gear and human potential. But does the latter have an upper limit?
Emilie Pellerin Climbs “La Zébrée,” Steep 5.14a Trad Line
With La Zébrée, Emilie Pellerin joins a small group of women to have climbed 5.14 on gear.
Audacity. Fred Beckey and the Improbable Ascent of Mount Waddington.
In 1942 two teenagers set out on one of the boldest adventures of all time: In a sea-to-summit push, they would attempt to climb Mount Waddington, a formidable and remote mountain widely considered the most difficult in North America. Unsupported and cut off from any outside contact, Fred and Helmy Beckey pulled off a masterstroke. Here, for the first time, American mountaineering legend Fred Beckey tells the story.