Video Spotlight
Dani Arnold Repeats Anubis (XII 12), Ben Nevis, Scotland
Dani Arnold Repeats Anubis (XII 12), Ben Nevis, Scotland

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John Long: A Confederacy of Dunces
Navigating Commercial Hoopla On A Bellyful Of Bad Fish
Cold War
What do sitting through an ice comp and a recital of Bach's Brandenburg concertos have in common? A: They seem brilliant after the fact, but during them you have to mainline espresso beans to stay propped upright.
Spotlight: Alexander Ruchkin - Russian Locomotive
Ruchkin, 42, was the technical force behind the 2004 first ascent of the north face of Jannu, part of the "Big Walls" the Russian Way" series of 10 first ascents envisioned by Alexander Odintsov. Ruchkin has been present for five of the seven routes completed, including those on the Troll Wall, Norway; Trango Tower, Pakistan; and Great Sail Peak, Baffin Island. This summer he will attempt the north face of Masherbrum in Pakistan.
An Encounter with Fred
Joe Josephson phoned with an interesting proposal: Fred Beckey had come to town for a reunion of Montana's Dirty Sox Club, a guild of Montana climbers from the 1960s through the 1980s.

If anyone has earned an honorary membership in a group named Dirty Sox it is Washington's Fred Beckey, sovereign of American DirtBag Climbers.
Arc'teryx R-320
The new Arc'Teryx harnesses are snazzy, thin, sleek and, at just 11.4 ounces, unbelievably light. I tested the R-320, the all-around, four-gear-loop, fixed-leg-loop model.

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