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Create or Else: Chongo
Create or Else: Chongo

Climb Safe

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John Long: The Only Rule That Counts
The greatest riches lie at the end of your dreams
Superwuss (5.10), Black Canyon
“If I ever did a first ascent,” my friend Brandi said, “I would call it Super Wuss.” After belaying Brandi for nearly an hour as she hung, battled and grunted up the red 5.6 at the Boulder Rock Club, I could see that she was probably not destined for new routing. But the name made me laugh, and I thought it deserved a home on a future first ascent.
Nik Berry: Obsessive Crusher
An unassuming 24-year-old from Sandy, Utah, Nik Berry redpointed the 5.13d “ledge-to-ledge” version of the Salathé Wall (VI 5.13d) on El Capitan.
Altered State
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
Lowa Ice Comp IP GTX
Sporting an, over the ankle upper, the Lowa Ice Comp, which came out in 2005, is the most boot-like of the fruitboots I have tested. It’s practical, warm enough for winter days in Colorado (that is down to about 20 F) and is the model that Ines Papert rages in, which says enough right there.

Medical Advice

Training Tips

Gear Advice

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