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When We Were Knights
When We Were Knights

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Climb Safe


TNB: The Only Blasphemy
John Bachar laces up his boots and cinches the sling on his chalk bag. “Ready?” Only then do I realize he means to climb all two thousand feet solo, without a rope. To save face, I agree, thinking: Well, if he suggests something too crazy, I’ll just draw the line. I was the first to start soloing out at Josh anyhow.
It took 35 days, or maybe more. “I stopped counting after I knew it was going to take me a while just to do the moves,” says Vasiliy “Vasya” Vorotnikov of his efforts on the Rumney, New Hampshire, route he calls Jaws II (5.15a).
Ammon McKneely
Nobody dominates El Cap's hard, scary lines like Ammon McNeely. He has close to 30 speed ascents on El Cap and the big walls of Zion National Park, Utah, many of them in-a-day records that won't be beaten for a long time.
Altered State
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
GSb Binding
Having nearly had a nasty accident when a clip-on crampon popped off my boot while leading, I was keen to try the new GSb system on the Grivel G14 crampon and Scarpa Freney XT boot.

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