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AAC Universal Belay Standard - Part 1
AAC Universal Belay Standard - Part 1



John Long Tales


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John Long: Channel Surfing
As far back as I could remember I’d wondered which of mankind’s faiths and illusions I could choose as my sustaining light, and I’d chosen the greatest existential pathology of them all: that if I worked hard enough, and smartly enough, my greatest challenges would someday flow effortlessly under my hands like glassy Malibu swells.
Cochamó Madness
2009 season highlighted by the first free ascent of Cerro Capicúa, 4,000-foot 5.12d.
Alpine Warriors - History of Alpinists in Yugoslavia
Alpine Warriors, Bernadette McDonald’s history of alpinists in Yugoslavia, has won this year’s award for Mountaineering History at the Banff Mountain Book Competition and is eligible for this year’s Phyllis and Don Munday Award, to be announced at the festival on November 5.
Altered State
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
MSR Reactor Stove
It was only a matter of time before MSR, the Toyota of climbing and backpacking stoves, picked up the gauntlet shoved down its throat three years ago by the upstart Jetboil, which unleashed an integrated stove and pot that touted fast boil times, decent performance in wind, and the best fuel-efficiency ever seen in a propane/butane canister cooker.

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