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Slow Moments - IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail 2016
Slow Moments - IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail 2016



John Long Tales


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Features

TNB: The Only Blasphemy
John Bachar laces up his boots and cinches the sling on his chalk bag. “Ready?” Only then do I realize he means to climb all two thousand feet solo, without a rope. To save face, I agree, thinking: Well, if he suggests something too crazy, I’ll just draw the line. I was the first to start soloing out at Josh anyhow.
Not So Fast: Lessons From a Father-Son Trip to Patagonia
Every couple of years, my son Tim, Jr. and I take a climbing trip together. Usually we pick one of my “dream climbs”—those classic routes that you always hear about, but seem too difficult to consider seriously. But my son encourages me to climb harder than I think I can, and together we have done The Scenic Cruise, The Naked Edge, Primrose Dihedrals and most recently Lotus Flower Tower. It is especially cool for me both to tick a lifetime goal and climb with my son.
Committed: Matt McCormick
Matt McCormick is probably best known for a 35-foot, spinning fall from his trad 5.13c R, Wheelin' and Dealin', on the Spider's Web, Adirondacks, New York. The sickening plummet on sketchy gear was filmed and posted online.
An Encounter with Fred
Joe Josephson phoned with an interesting proposal: Fred Beckey had come to town for a reunion of Montana's Dirty Sox Club, a guild of Montana climbers from the 1960s through the 1980s.

If anyone has earned an honorary membership in a group named Dirty Sox it is Washington's Fred Beckey, sovereign of American DirtBag Climbers.
Scarpa Feroce
The Feroce is one of the best sport-climbing shoes I’ve ever worn.

Medical Advice

Training Tips

Gear Advice

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