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James Pearson Climbs Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-), Indian Creek, Utah
James Pearson Climbs Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-), Indian Creek, Utah



John Long Tales


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John Long: A Confederacy of Dunces
Navigating Commercial Hoopla On A Bellyful Of Bad Fish
Not So Fast: Lessons From a Father-Son Trip to Patagonia
Every couple of years, my son Tim, Jr. and I take a climbing trip together. Usually we pick one of my “dream climbs”—those classic routes that you always hear about, but seem too difficult to consider seriously. But my son encourages me to climb harder than I think I can, and together we have done The Scenic Cruise, The Naked Edge, Primrose Dihedrals and most recently Lotus Flower Tower. It is especially cool for me both to tick a lifetime goal and climb with my son.
Beth Rodden
I was part of the so-called first generation of kid climbers, which included Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell and Katie Brown, among others. Looking back, that was an exciting time. There weren't that many of us. We were just going for it.
Altered State
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
Scarpa Feroce
The Feroce is one of the best sport-climbing shoes I’ve ever worn.

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