How to Beat Fear
I learned to climb in the 1970s, before sport climbing. Back then, many climbs were dangerous and falling was taboo. Because of that early experience,...
I learned to climb in the 1970s, before sport climbing. Back then, many climbs were dangerous and falling was taboo. Because of that early experience,...
I was upgrading the 3/8-inch Rawl five-piece bolts on a route, hoping to replace them with half-inch, but one of the bolts just spins and won't unscrew.
When I fall on a project I pitch a fit. Are there tricks to controlling anger?
Progress or respect in first ascents?
On May 23, British climbers John Beckwidth and Rob Ellender woke up on Long Ledge, 31 pitches up El Capitan, to damp, whiteout conditions. The Brits had spent the last five days climbing the Salathe Wall (VI 5.9 C2) and were eager to summit, a mere three pitches away.
I had pain about halfway down my forearm on the biggest and outermost tendon that connects in the middle right at the base of the palm. I think it happened after hanging too hard on my middle and ring fingers.
Over the last couple of weeks my left pinky finger has gone numb, and there's a spot on my left wrist (palm up, right side, where the hand begins and the bone sticks out a little) where even the softest tap provokes pain through the pinky and ring finger. I can move the pinky, but it's asleep 24/7.
I woke up after a couple of days of hard climbing with severe pain in both shoulders. It's mostly in the rear deltoids but radiates down my arm into the triceps. Coincidentally(?), I had a bad virus during the night.
After lowering off a very pumpy climb, can I speed my recovery by running or doing pushups? I heard that light aerobic exercise immediately following a climb helps flush lactic acid out of the forearms by pumping blood through the body.
What's the best and easiest way to develop crusher sloper strength, and what's the best way to grip a sloper?
I have a project at a crag that has only hard (for me) routes. All the routes have low cruxes, right off the ground, as well as hard, tweaky climbing throughout. How do I warm up at a place with no warm-ups?