Calum Muskett

The 23rd annual Piolets d’or awards seem to have taken a step away from the controversial “competitive” format with a slight change in direction. The awards no longer stress competition in the traditional sense of the word but rather the emphasis is on the festival, a celebration of major past and present ascents carried out by both the rising stars and established alumni of the climbing world.

Dave MacLeod and Calum Muskett wanted to climb one of the hardest routes in the Alps, and this led them to Paciencia (5.13b), a route established by Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck that takes a harrowing line up the Eiger's infamous north face. This is their story.