Too Hard For a Caveman—Anyone can hit the campus board and get strong, but a truly skilled climber is someone who can keep it together even when he is drowning in lactic acid, miles above the runner. These five counterintuitive technique pointers can help you go from Stone Age to Stone Crusher.
Plug the gaps in your strength training this winter.
Managing a climbing injury is tough. When it comes to major injuries, everyone knows that the right call is to take the time needed to rehabilitate, while focusing on other forms of fitness training. However with minor tweaks, it may be possible to keep going without aggravating the injury further.
Can we play to the strengths of our ages? Should we work more on power when we are young and endurance when old? How does our susceptibility to injury change over time and to what extent should we allow it to affect our climbing and training?
Check out Neil Gresham's author page.
It’s tempting when we hear about Ondra to think that we’re not training enough, and to jack up the volume. Fact is, few people can cope with his absurd workload, and resting can do more good than adding to your training—a tenet that can be particularly frustrating for climbers with limited spare time.
Which is the best way to increase the resistance of campus and hangboard exercises—using smaller holds or adding weight?
The value of cardio-work and gym conditioning for climbers is widely understood, yet tastes and tolerances vary considerably. If you’re psyched to get with the program, here are some guidelines for boosting your supportive fitness to the next level.
I have a recurring elbow injury. I know how to fix it, but how can I stay strong while it’s healing?
Neil Gresham, renowned coach and Rock and Ice columnist, outlines the most essential (and neglected) component of any training program—recovery.
Eating small meals helps keep my energy level up but I'm drained by 4 p.m., while large meals keep me satisfied but sluggish. What are some of the best foods to eat at the crag to feel energized throughout the day?
After recent miserable sport climbing performances, I’m finally knuckling down to address my weaknesses—and use the hangboard I bought 18 months ago!