Climbing Beta: Rocktown, Georgia
Moja Gear takes us to Rocktown, Georgia in this Destination feature.
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The following beta is courtesy of mojagear.com:
Rocktown, Georgia
Overview
Every bit as good as its more popular sandstone counterparts of Horse Pens and Stone Fort, Rocktown has exceptional bouldering in a more secluded setting. The climbing is spread out amongst the large to downright massive boulders on top of Pigeon Mountain in Northwest Georgia. Front areas can get crowded quick, but there is a near endless amount of rock. Find serenity inside “The Maze” or just walk further back for hidden classics and unclimbed problems.
Climbing Style
Ninety-percent of people that come to Rocktown come to boulder. But one can find traditional climbing crags hidden throughout the area; the “Lost Wall” being the most popular spot. For ambitious adventurers, there are plenty of other cliffs to explore behind the boulders, or you can also easily just drive up Pigeon Mountain to find them.
Best season
The best time to climb is Fall through early Spring. Sunny but chilly days give killer friction and the absolute best conditions to send your project. Rocktown stays relatively temperate, but be warned: summers can be scorching, and winter cold fronts can bring temps as low as 0°F!
Climbing grade range
In Rocktown, you’ll find bouldering from V-easy to V-really hard, and there’s so much of everything in between. There is truly plenty to climb whether you’re a first-time climber or a professional!
Best local spot
The small town of LaFayette, Georgia offers restaurant choices that include breakfast options, pizza, Mexican, and Chinese food. But don’t expect anything to stay open late. If you’re looking for real civilization, drive about an hour to Chattanooga, Tennessee or Atlanta, Georgia. They’re both easy trips to take when you need to give your hands and body a rest day.
Top climbs in area
Bouldering
– The Scoop (V2) – Exactly what it sounds like!
– Golden Showers (V4) – Beautiful tall problem
– Soap on a Rope (V5) – Lots of moves, tough top out
– Blue (V5) – Awesome technical slab
– Croc Bloc (V5) – Overhung highball
– Lab Rats (V6) – Fun powerful face
– Sherman Photo Roof (V7) – Very steep classic climb with a lot of history
– The Orb (V8) – Hard slopers and overhung. Everyone’s project at some point
– Golden Harvest (V10) – One of the best boulder problems anywhere
Trad
– Booze and Broads (5.9+) – Great corner climb
Best kept secret
Definitely head into Petty John’s Cave at the base of Pigeon Mountain. Temps stay constant, so it’s perfect for days when it’s too hot or cold to climb. Bring a lot of lights, a buddy system, and please don’t get lost in the miles of caverns. It’s easier than you might think!
How stiff is the grading?
Supposedly the climbing in Rocktown is considered to be relatively stout, but the “Southern Sandstone” style can be picked up and adjusted to in a few days. Don’t let the grading deter you; the climbing in Rocktown is truly fantastic!
Where to stay?
Primitive camping is available within a mere five-minute drive from the parking lot. It’s about as convenient as it gets.
Other information
There is a Walmart in LaFayette for all your emergency camping needs. Like it or not, this place can be a lifesaver!
IMPORTANT:
A Georgia Outdoor Recreational Pass (GORP) is needed to climb and camp in Rocktown. They are cheap, last for a duration of a year, and help keep the areas clean and safe; so don’t skimp out! You can purchase these online at georgiawildlife.com.
Beta contributed by Kevin Boyko.
Prefer a trip south of the border?
Check out beta for El Potrero Chico, Mexico
About Moja Gear
Moja Gear is a community-powered hub for rock climbing content and gear. Share and explore climbing stories, interviews, training tips, videos, and more at mojagear.com. Now through November 30, 2015, enter ROCKANDICE at checkout to save 15% .