Super Guide to the Ultimate Rockies Road Trip
Stretching 3,000 miles from British Columbia to New Mexico, the Rocky Mountains are a geological wonder and a climber's best friend. Here you'll find every rock type imaginable, and in any size or style you may desire. Whatever your pleasure, the Rockies deliver. What better place, then, to spend your summer? For this year's Road Trip we ride the Rockies and sample some of the best they have to offer. Travel with us—the leg-work is already done. Just fill you chalk bag, gas the tank and hit the road.
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Lake Louise
Alberta, Canada
Sport and trad cragging on vertical-to-overhanging, bullet-hard quartzite buttresses, and mountainous trad adventures thrown in to boot. All this against the breathtaking backdrop o Lake Louise.
Camping
Lake Louise Campground; visit the Banff National Park website to pick a campsite and obtain your camping permit. Alternatively, pitch a tent in the backcountry at a Parks Canada campsite, for which you will need a backcountry permit.
Food & Drink
Grizzly House is a Banff institution, known for it’s fondue dinners and retro decor. Melissa’s Missteak is great for food, pool, darts and sports.
Rest Days
Hike 2.2 miles uphill to the Lake Agnes Tea House, or farther (3.4 miles) to the Plain of Six Glaciers Tea House, both of which start from Lake Louise and have outrageous views of lakes, peaks and glaciers. Visit the mineral Upper Hot Springs for a relaxing soak with panoramic views of the Rockies, or head to the Cave and Basin National Historic Site of Canada.
Info
Purchase a national park pass as you enter the park.
Number of Routes
250+
Grades
5.8 to 5.10: 130+ routes.
Climbing Type
Trad, sport and alpine trad.
Guidebook
Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies, by John Martin and Jon Jones.
Guide Service
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures, www.yamnuska.com, (403) 678-4164.
Mt. Yamnuska
Alberta, Canada
With a southern exposure allowing for a long climbing season, there’s plenty of time to enjoy the single-pitch limestone sport lines and multi-pitch trad offerings of Yamnuska.
Camping
No camping at the former Yamnuska campsite next to the trailhead parking lot, but camping is permitted anywhere more than half mile from the road. Developed campsites can be found in and around Canmore.
Food & Drink
Rocky Mountain Flatbread Compaany in Canmore serves all organic fare, and the best coffee in Canmore is served at Beamers, the locals’ favorite.
Rest Days
Hike the stunning Ha Ling Peak
Number of Routes
150+
Grades
5.4 to 5.13, 1 pitch to 12 pitches.
Climbing Type
Sport and multi-pitch trad.
Guidebook
Rock Climbs of Mt. Yamnuska, by Andy Genereux.
Guide Service
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures, www.yamnuska.com, (403) 678-4164.
Bugaboos
British Columbia, Canada
The granite spires of the Bugaboos, surrounded by the glaciers and peaks of the Purcell Mountains (technically not part of the Rockies, but since you’l drive by the Bugs during your tour we’d be remiss in not including this world-class area), provide one of the most spectacular alpine playgrounds you will ever see. Sharpen your glacier skills and head there from summer into early fall to enjoy mountaineering scrambles, moderate free climbs and multi-day big walls. But don’t bank on good weather, as fair conditions are not given in this part of the world
Camping
A steep three-hour approach gets you to the Conrad Kain Hut, owned and maintained by the Alpine Club of Canada ($25 per night; book ahead). Wilderness, backcountry or walk-in camping is allowed. Backcountry campgrounds are provided at Boulder Camp below the Conrad Kain Hut and on the bare rock slabs of Applebee Dome, 1 km (0.6 miles) above the hut. A per-person fee is in effect at these campgrounds, payable at a self-registration station inside the hut.
Food & Drink
Stop by Whitetooth Brewing in Golden for craft beer tasting. For steaks, burgers and veggie options accompanied by live music, visit the Wolf’s Den in Golden, or head to Bacchus Books and Cafe for a good breakfast or lunch with veggie, vegan or gluten-free options.
Rest Days
Biking (note: helmets are mandatory in B.C.!), fishing, hiking, paddle boarding, canoeing and kayaking.
Tips
There are a few easy to moderate routes, but most routes involve crossing the glaciers and negotiating difficult traverses. Crampons, ice axes and ropes are required. The East Ridge of Bugaboo Spire is listed as one of the “Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.”
Number of Routes
200+
Grades
Third class scrambles to 5.12 pitches.
Climbing Type
Alpine trad.
Guidebook
The Bugaboos by Chris Atkinson and Marc Piche or Bugaboo Rock: A Climbing Guide, 2nd Edition by Randall Green and Joe Bensen.
Guide Service
Cloud Nine Guides, www.cloudnineguides.com, (403) 707-5877.
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures, www.yamnuska.com, (403) 678-4164.
Echo Canyon
Bow Valley, Alberta, Canada
This outstanding limestone sport area, which has seen extensive development over the last decade, has become a real hot spot for the Calgary and Canmore crews. No one style characterizes this area, so you can get your fix of everything from techy crimps to steep power endurance.
Camping
Numerous official campsites around Canmore, such as Bow River Campground. Also camping and dorm-style accommodation at a nearby Alpine Club of Canada hut.
Food & Drink
No shortage of great options in Canmore. The Grizzly Paw Brewing Company has mountain views, local brews and Canadian pub fare. The Communitea Cafe has excellent coffee, vegan options, organic food and occasional live music events.
Rest Days
Take a few hours to hike the stunning Ha Ling Peak.
Number of Routes
125+
Grades
5.8 to 510: 15 routes;
5.11 to 5.12: 70 routes;
Climbing Type
Sport cragging.
Info
Plenty of other sport crags to explore in the Bow Valley
Guidebook
Canmore Sport Climbs by Dave Dornian and Bow Valley Sport by Derek Galloway.
Gallatin Canyon
Montana
It’s not only ice that makes Bozeman an unforgettable climbing location, and for a taste of teh adventurous rock climbing available in the area, look no further than Gallatin Canyon. Limestone sport climbing, granite multi-pitch trad lines, and gneiss boulders are all open for business for much of the year
Camping
Pay campgrounds are located in the canyon a couple of miles south of the climbing. Free camping is also permitted on the surrounding National Forest land.
Food & Drink
Bozeman has a host of feasting options. Montana Ale Works serves creative pub food and over 40 regional craft brews on tap, and the Garage Soup Shack is a funky stop off for quick bites.
Rest Days
All the usual outdoor pursuits are available in the area and downtown Bozeman is well worth exploring. Combine an easy day activity with an evening soak at the Bozeman Hot Springs and you’ll be ready for another day on the rock.
Number of Routes
350+
Grades
Routes 5.6 to 5.13, with the majority in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. Bouldering up to V10.
Climbing Type
Single andhumbug multi-pitch trad, sport and mixed lines, plus some bouldering.
Guidebook
Bozeman Rock Climbs, 3rd Edition by Bill Dockins and Tom Kalakay or Rock Climbs of Southwest Montana by Kyle Vassilopoulos and Joe Josephson.
Stone Hill
Montana
Given its proximity to the Canadian tundra, and subsequent freeze-thaw cycles, Stone Hill is pretty much the only area in northwest Montana where the rock is solid enough to host climbing. Offering single-pitch sport, trad and mixed face climbing on solid quartzite rock, with easy toprope setups, this roadside area can challenge climbers of all levels.
Camping
Many campgrounds located along the Kootenai Reservoir. Camp 32 is four miles north of the main climbing area, and is free. Peck Gulch and Rexford Bench campgrounds are located to the south of the hill and charge a small fee.
Food & Drink
Cafe Jax, in Eureka, is the place to eat. Homestead Brewery is the one and only brew pub, and is slightly outside Eureka, but well worth the trip.
Rest Days
A Stone Hil local Rick Colville, says, “Bring your imagination.” Fishing, hiking, horseback riding, biking, water sports. On Wednesdays there’s a farmers market in Eureka, and Tobacco Valley Historical Village is an interesting collection of restored buildings and other structures from the 1880s to 1920s.
Info
The rock is quartzite and the routes are generally solid and clean. All routes feature top anchors and most are toprope ready. There are seasonal raptor closures.
Number of Routes
Grades
5.5 to 5.13b. Majority are 5.10 to 5.11.
Climbing Type
Sport and trad.
Guidebook
Inquire at Rocky Mountain Outfitter in Kalispell.
Humbug Spires
Montana
The Humbug Spires are a cluster of over 50 white granite spires, the tallest of which are climbable, with the most famous and popular being The Wedge. The climbing offers multiple pitches of vertical crack systems with intermittent and diversely features faces.
Camping
Free pristine camping around The Wedge—stick to developed sites. Developed camping and RV sites at Divide Bridge Campground.
Food & Drink
Lots of cool places to eat and drink in Dillon, including the Taco Bus, Muffaletta’s for low-stress food and coffee, or The Old Bull Pen for American cafe culture.
Rest Days
Backpacking or day trips on foot or horseback; stunning wildlife to see, and great fishing. Bannack State Park Ghost Town outside Dillon is an interesting way to spend an afternoon.
Info
Part of the Boulder Batholith where you will also find excellent bouldering.
Number of Routes
50+
Grades
Climbing Type
Multi-pitch trad.
Guidebook
Butte’s Climbing Guide by Dwight Bishop and Randall Green’s Rock Climbing Montana.
Elephant’s Perch
Sawtooth Range, Idaho
Idaho’s Sawtooth Range is an often overlooked alpine rock area, and the sweeping dome of the Elephant’s Perch is one of its finest gems. To access this majestic granite face and its dreamy multi-pitch trad lines, enjoy a scenic boat ride across Redfish Lake before a short and stout three-mile hike to the pristine camping around Saddleback Lakes at the base of the Perch.
Camping
Camping at large is allowed within the Sawtooth Wilderness. Several established bivy sites can be found at Saddleback Lakes immediately southeast of Elephant’s Perch. Please observe the usual backcountry camping regulations (in particular, pack out solid waster, as the lakes are largely stagnant in late season).
Food & Drink
Sawtooth Luce’s in Stanley for good beer on tap and gastropub food. Papa Brunee’s for pizza and Stanley Baking Co. for coffee and baked delights.
Rest Days
Hiking (700 miles of trails), wildflowers, rafting, horseback riding, fly fishing, stunning mountain-biking trails and hot springs. Enjoy the nighttime sky above the Sawtooth Range and observe the unobscured Milky Way in all its glory in an absence of light pollution.
Access Tip
The Lodge operates a high-speed boat shuttle between the north and south ends of Redfish Lake. The boat ride takes four to six miles off the approach.
Number of Routes
20+
Grades
Climbing Type
Alpine trad.
Guidebook
Idaho: A Climber’s Guide by Tom Lopez.
Channel Tubes
Idaho
An hour and a half northwest of Idaho’s centerpiece area, City of Rocks, and hidden beneath a barren sagebrush plateau, lies a maze of lava tubes, some collapsed and others intact, offering unique climbing and bouldering terrain on top-quality rock. The area may be underwater in the spring, due to the irrigation release at Magic Reservoir.
Camping
Basic dispersed campgrounds on the BLM land around Magic Reservoir.
Food & Drink
Go see the Burrito Lady in Shoshone.
Rest Days
Visit the Shoshone Ice Cave—a natural refrigerator in the lava desert—with its year-round ice floor, stunning ice formations and museum of Indian artifacts.
Number of Routes
20 or so roped, hundreds of boulder problems.
Grades
5.10 to 5.13: 10+ routes;
V4 to V12: hundreds of boulders.
Climbing Type
Some sport, but this is mostly a bouldering area.
Guidebook
Idaho Underground by David Bingham.
Dierkes Lake
Idaho
Renowned for its super steep and pumpy jug hauling on overhanging basalt, Dierkes Lake offers some of Idaho’s best powerful sport climbing and is home to the “steepest 5.10 in the country.” Most routes are graded at 5.11 and above, but there are enough moderates to keep lower-grade climbers occupied.
Camping
No official camping but there are camping spots off Golf Course Road.
Food & Drink
Von Scheidt Brewing Company is a craft brewery in downtown Twin Falls.
Rest Days
Visit Shoshone Falls, which at 212 feet are taller than Niagra Falls.
Number of Routes
100+.
Grades
5.10: 40 routes;
5.11: 25 routes;
5.12 and up: 25 routes.
Guidebook
Basalt Climbs of South-Central Idaho, 2nd Edition, by Mark Weber.
Little Cottonwood Canyon
Utah
With routes on both the north and the south sides of the canyon, a host of climbing can be enjoyed almost year round in LCC. The area offers a huge mix of sport, single and multi-pitch trad and bouldering, almost all on beautiful white granite.
Camping
Campgrounds include Tanner’s Flat and Albion Basin, both of which are only open in the summer. No camping within one-half mile of any road in Mill Creek Canyon, Big Cottonwood or Little Cottonwood Canyon.
Food & Drink
Up at the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon is The Hog Wallow Pub, which has live music on certain days, and the Porcupine Pub & Grille, which has locally sourced homemade food.
Rest Days
Jump on your mountain bike or enjoy cool temperatures up canyon for hiking during the hot summer months.
Number of Routes
1000+.
Grades
5.8 to 5.10: 500+ routes;
5.11 to 5.12: 250+ routes;
V1-V5: 140+ problems;
Climbing Type
Trad, sport and bouldering.
Guidebook
Ferguson to Longe Peak: A Granite Guide by Nathan Smith, Andrew burr and Tyler Phillips.
Rock Canyon
Utah
Generally regarded as more moderate than nearby American Fork, Rock Canyon boasts bolted climbs from 5.5 to 5.13, and trad from 5.6 to 5.12, with the majority below 5.10.
Camping
Free camping in the canyon.
Food & Drink
For cheap food, head to J. Dawgs. For not-so-cheap food, the best restaurant in Provo is Bombay House: this place is packed from open to close. The Coffee Pod is the place for caffeine.
Rest Days
Hiking in beautiful Provo Canyon.
Info
It’s important to pack a full supply of water into this canyon.
Number of Routes
400+.
Grades
5.8 to 5.10: 200+ routes;
5.11 to 5.12: 100+ routes.
Climbing Type
Trad, sport and toprope.
Guidebook
Climber’s Guide to American Fork / Rock Canyon by Bret and Stuart Ruckman (this guidebook is somewhat outdated now).
American Fork
Utah
Steep sport climbing on pocketed limestone and home to some of the hardest routes in Utah. With plenty of shade in the deep canyon and climbs from 5.9 to 5.14, American Fork has enough climbing to keep you busy from February through November.
Camping
Campsites can be found throughout the canyon, but the sites near the climbing need to be reserved. There is a canyon entrance fee.
Food & Drink
This area is not know for its food! Unless you like gas station burritos the best option is to bring some sweet fare to enjoy around the campfire.
Rest Days
Try your hand at caving in Timpanogos Cave National Monument.
Number of Routes
500+.
Grades
5.8 to 5.10: 150+ routes;
5.11 to 5.12: 250+ routes.
Guidebook
Climber’s Guide to American Fork / Rock Canyon by Bret and Stuart Ruckman.
Uinta Mountains
Utah
Come summer, the Uintas provide steep, often remote and solitary trad, sport and alpine climbing horizontally fractured quartzite. Thank to spates of recent development, the area is now becoming a popular place to clip bolts, in crisp temps and a beautiful setting.
Camping
Designated sites along the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway, including butterfly Campground, Highline Trailhead Campground and Moosehorn Campground.
Food & Drink
Burgers and beer at the Notch Pub in Samak, or “The Best Pizza in Utah” at Summit Inn in Kamas.
Rest Days
Hit up Homestead Crater Hot Springs in Midway, take the short walk to Provo River Falls or get lost (figuratively speaking) in the High Uintas Wilderness Area.
Number of Routes
250+.
Grades
5.8 to 5.10: 150+ routes;
Climbing Type
Trad, alpine trad, sport and toprope setups.
Guidebook
Uinta Rock by Nathan Smith and Paul Tusting.
Guide Service
White Pine Touring, www.whitepinetouring.com, (435) 649-8710.
The Tetons
Wyoming
With everything from technical scrambles to multiday mixed alpine adventures, and even a spot of bouldering and bolt clipping, the home of North America’s most famous skyline has it all.
Camping
Numerous campsites with nightly fees. Overnight backcountry camping is permitted only in designated areas. Permits are required for all overnight trips and are available on a first-come first-served based.
Food & Drink
Melvin Brewing, in Alpine, south of Jackson and nearly on the Idaho border—www.melvinbrewing.com, (307) 654-0426. Cafe Genevieve in downtown Jackson serves home-cooked classics.
Rest Days
Take a day trip to Yellowstone National Park or go whitewater paddling on the Snake River.
Number of Routes
1000+.
Grades
Full range from Grade 3 scrambles to 5.13 pitches.
Climbing Type
Alpine trad and trad cragging, with some bouldering and sport thrown in.
Guidebook
Teton Rock Climbs by Aaron Gams and Best Climbs Grand Teton National Park by Richard Rossiter.
Wind River Range
Wyoming
The 100-mile-long Wind River Range includes several peaks over 13,000 feet, including the highest Rocky Mountain peaks outside of Colorado and the largest system of glaciers in the American Rockies. The technical alpine routes of the Winds are rmeote, some requiring a two- or three-day walk in, and as such require prior planning and backcountry experience. Bring insect repellent, as mosquitoes are a plague in the height of the summer climbing season.
Camping
Trails End Campground (outside Pinedale, for folks heading up to Titcomb Basin) and Big Sandy Campground (both have nightly fees) are suitable kick offs for the west side of the range. Numerous campsites to choose from depending on where you are planning to go climbing. Bivy sites and wilderness camping also permissible. You can hire local horsepackers to carry your gear in to help with the long approach, should you wish to pack for luxury.
Food & Drink
Heart-BAr Bar-B-Que in Dubois does exactly what it says. Wind River Brewing Co. in Pinedale boasts craft brews and American comfort food.
Rest Days
Enjoy the scenery on a hike or a run. Hire a couple of llamas from the Lander Llama Hiking Company to undertake a guided or non-guided wilderness llama trip. Visit Dubois, one of the last remaining Old West cowboy towns, and the Museum of the Mountain Man in Pinedale.
Info
The size of the range means that there are numerous access points, so plan your route and access in advance
Number of Routes
Grades
5.8 to 5.13.
Climbing Type
Alpine trad.
Guidebook
Climbing and Hiking in the Wind River Mountains by Joe Kelsey.
Ten Sleep
Wyoming
Over a thousand routes. No, that wasn’t a typo. Ten Sleep Canyon is a sport climber’s delight: with routes of every grade in a beautiful Old West setting, it’s a must on any reputable roadtrip.
Camping
Two developed campsites (book in advance) and undeveloped camping off the main road. Camping at cabins at Ten Sleep Rock Ranch.
Food & Drink
Ten Sleep Brewing Co.; Crazy Woman Cafe; Dirty Sally’s for ice-cream waffles.
Rest Days
Hiking, swimming, fishing.
Number of Routes
1000+.
Grades
Full spread from 5.8 to 5.14, with a concentration in the 5.11 to 5.13 range.
Climbing Type
Sport.
Guidebook
Holy Ten Sleep Electric Koolaide 3-D Acid Test by Aaron Huey comes with 3-D glasses and hefty price tag ($75). The electronic option is Ten Sleep Rock Climbing Guidebook by Mike Snyder on Rakkup.
Vedauwoo
Wyoming
A veritable crack-climber’s paradise. Vedauwoo also offers techy slabs, crimpy faces and even a little bouldering. At an elevation of around 8,000 feet, this granite area is filled with distinctive formations and great summits
Camping
Campground run by the Forest Service, otherwise find a legal spot, of which there are many.
Food & Drink
Coal Creek Tap and the Altitude Chophouse and Brewery, both in Laramie.
Rest Days
Nearby fishing, mountain biking or a visit to Laramie.
Number of Routes
900+.
Grades
Climbing Type
Mostly trad.
Guidebook
Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming by Robert B. Kelman.
Eldorado Springs
Colorado
World-famous climbing awaits on the beautiful sandstone conglomerate of “Eldo.” This area is renowned for having a unique style that may take some getting use to, so start easy. In the summer months pick a more remote crag to avoid the crowds.
Camping
Camping is prohibited within the canyon. There are alternatives outside.
Food & Drink
No shortage of choices in Boulder; try the incredibly popular Southern Sun Pub and Brewery.
Rest Days
Walk the strip in Boulder, hike the Mt. Sanitas trail or relax in the Eldo Canyon Hot Springs pool.
Number of Routes
1,100+.
Grades
5.8 to 5.10: 500+ routes;
5.11 to 5.12: 300+ routes.
Climbing Type
Guidebook
Eldorado Canyon: A Climbing Guide, 2nd Edition by Steve Levin.
Guide Service
Colorado Mountain School, www.coloradomountainschool.com, (800) 836-4008.
Estes Park
Colorado
Even if you don’t think you’ve heard of “The Park,” you have. The gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park boasts a varied selection of best-in-show climbing. Estes Park and its surrounding areas have world-class bouldering, alpine rock routes, and even some quality sport climbing.
Camping
Numerous fee campsites to choose from in Estes Park.
Food & Drink
Ed’s Cantina and Estes Park Brewery in Estes Park.
Rest Days
Fish, hike or swim.
Number of Routes
1,200+.
Grades
Routes 5.8 to 5.14 and boulders up to V15.
Climbing Type
Multi-pitch trad and sport, single-pitch trad and sport, bouldering.
Guidebook
Rocky Mountain National Park: The climber’s Guide by Bernard Gillett and Bouldering Rocky Mountain National Park and Mount Evans by Jamie Emerson.
Guide Service
Colorado Wilderness Rides and Guides, www.cwrag.com, (720) 242-9828.
South Platte
Colorado
Every type of climbing imaginable is within this vast region of many crags between Denver and Colorado Springs. Standouts are Devil’s Head, Turkey Rock and Eleven-Mile Canyon.
Camping
Many options; depends on which crag you visit. Devil’s Head Campground, Eleven Mile State Park, Lone Rock Campground. Check ahead and reserve a site during the busy summer/tourist season.
Food & Drink
Deckers Corner in Sedalia for an easy meal and Pike’s Peak Brewing Company in Monument for the cold ones. Denver and Colorado Springs have practically infinite eateries and brew pubs.
Rest Days
Miles of hiking trails. Visit Denver Art Museum and cruise LoDo.
Number of Routes
Around 2,000.
Grades
200 5.12 and harder, the rest are 5.11 and under.
Climbing Type
Single-pitch sport and trad, multi-pitch trad, bouldering.
Guidebook
South Platte Climbing by Jason Haas, Ben Schneider and Craig Weinhold.
Shelf Road
Colorado
Take advantage of Cañon City’s 325 annual days of sunshine, and enjoy year-round climbing on vertical limestone at one of Colorado’s most popular, and one of its first, sport-climbing venues.
Camping
Shelf Road has two scenic campgrounds that operate on a first-come first-served basis and have a nightly fee.
Food & Drink
Red Canyon Cycles on Main Street in Cañon City serves beer, coffee and climbing supplies, while The Bean Pedaler, also on Main Street, has a small selection of climbing gear and sells coffee and breakfast burritos. Pizza Madness is a fun and funky find and Royal Gorge Brewing Co. has local brews and food.
Rest Days
Go rafting or take a peek around the Prison Museum in Cañon City.
Number of Routes
1,000+.
Grades
5.8 to 5.10: 380+ routes;
Climbing Type
Sport cragging.
Guidebook
Shelf Road Climbing: A Complete Guide by Bob D’Antonio.
Taos
New Mexico
Diverse rock awaits in this southernmost region of the Rockies. From high-quality basalt in the rarely visited area of Utopian Vistas, to the pristine multi-pitch granite of Questa Dome, the Taos area provides adventurous and varied climbing almost year round.
Camping
Plenty of free camping on BLM and National Forest land at many of the climbing areas, or upgrade to developed campsites along the Rio Hondo.
Food & Drink
Visit the unpretentious little gem La Cueva in Taos for inexpensive Mexican fare and World Cup Coffee for your favorite caffeinated beverage. Eske’s brewpub is a climbers’ institution.
Rest Days
Explore the traditional culture here and visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of the ancient Taos Pueblo belonging to a Tiwa-speaking Native American tribe of Puebloan people. Alternatively, get creative and throw a pot or Raku fire a vessel at the Taos Clay Center.
Number of Routes
500+.
Grades
Full range of routes, with the majority in 5.10 to 5.11, and boulders up to V10.
Climbing Type
Single and multi-pitch trad and sport, plus bouldering.
Guidebook
Taos Rock: Climbs and Boulders of Northern New Mexico by Jay Foley and Rock Climbing New Mexico by Dennis Jackson.
Guide Service
Mountain Skills Rock Guides, www.climbtaos.com, (575) 776-2222.
Diablo Canyon
New Mexico
Welcome to New Mexico’s Devil’s Tower. Year-round sport and trad climbing on dark columnar basalt cliffs ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.13. Helmets are highly recommended, as harsh freeze-thaw cycles can produce loose rocks.
Camping
Free camping at the Diablo Canyon Rec Area.
Food & Drink
Mexican food galore in Santa Fe! Try Cafe Castro or Tia Maria’s. For handcrafted beers and brewpub food, head to Second Street Brewery/Rufina Taproom, www.secondstreetbrewery.com, (505) 945-1286.
Rest Days
Check out the art and culture capital of Santa Fe.
Info
Watch out for rattlesnakes and tarantulas in this part of the world!
Number of Routes
250+.
Grades
5.8 to 5.10: 90+ routes;
5.11 to 5.12: 140+ routes.
Climbing Type
Single and multi-pitch trad and sport.
Guidebook
Taos Rock: Climbs and Boulders of Northern New Mexico by Jay Foley and Rock Climbing New Mexico by Dennis Jackson.
This article appeared in Rock and Ice issue 244 (August 2017).