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Gear Guy

Can I Modify my Crampon Without Compromising the Integrity?

I reversed and flipped a front point on my DMM Terminators to make a heel spur. This required cutting a notch in the frame of the crampons to fit the point. Have I seriously compromised the integrity of the crampon?

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I reversed and flipped a front point on my DMM Terminators to make a heel spur. This required cutting a notch in the frame of the crampons to fit the point. Have I seriously compromised the integrity of the crampon? Am I heading for Armageddon? Will the metal Schwarzenegger come after me?My modification also required widening some of the heel bail notches to allow for hardened steel nuts and bolts. These were supported by the extra spacers that came with the crampon to make it dual point.

—Caver J. Rowley | via online

Heel spurs were universally deemed cheating years ago when Will Gadd discovered he could hook them and sleep like a bat on the world’s hardest mixed routes, but you obviously did not get the memo. Gear Guy respects a fellow DIYer (do-it-yourselfer), but DMM would surely not condone drilling and sawing their beautiful products, nor do I, and you may have structurally damaged your crampons. Simply drilling the bail holes a bit and notching the heel frame a little should be OK, assuming you didn’t overheat the metal or remove too much of it, but your Frankenstein creation sounds like it took a bit more than just a simple nip here and there. If you feel like you might have damaged your crampons, you probably did. Get new ones. Gear Guy has spoken!