Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Brands

Injuries and Medical Advice

Medial Epicondylosis Tendonitis

Medial Epicondylosis Tendonitis---also known as golfer's elbow---is no fun.

Lock Icon

Unlock this article and unwrap savings this holiday season.

Already have an Outside Account? Sign in

Outside+ Logo

Now 30% Off.
$4.99/month $3.49/month*

Get the one subscription to fuel all your adventures.


  • Map your next adventure with our premium GPS apps: Gaia GPS Premium and Trailforks Pro.
  • Read unlimited digital content from 15+ brands, including Outside Magazine, Triathlete, Ski, Trail Runner, and VeloNews.
  • Watch 600+ hours of endurance challenges, cycling and skiing action, and travel documentaries.
  • Learn from the pros with expert-led online courses.
Join Outside+

*Outside memberships are billed annually. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. More Details

I started climbing last Christmas and immediately took to it, doing pull-ups, curls and hand exercises. I flew up the ratings to 5.11+ but one day I noticed that my elbow was sore. It has hurt for about a month now. The pain, a dull ache, goes away when I start to work out or climb, and comes back soon after I stop. I don’t know if I pulled something doing a dyno (that’s when the pain began) or if I’m going to have an ongoing problem.

—Stokedclimber, via Rockandice.com

You are suffering enthusiolisthesis, whereby your excitement to climb goes beyond tail-wagging enthusiasm and leads you down the slippery path of injury.

You are almost certainly suffering elbow tendonosis. Medial epicondylosis (inside elbow) is the garden variety for climbers. Read the “Dodgy Elbows
article for a rehab program.

[Also Read Gear Guy: The Worst Gear Ever Invented]

With this level of enthusiasm, you will absolutely need a comprehensive climbing conditioning program if you are to avoid injury. The first couple of years
in climbing are fraught with danger for your connective tissues. That is, muscle strength skyrockets while tendon and pulley strength lag well behind.

Solution: Purchase two bondage collars and two bullwhips. Put on one collar and tether yourself to the clothesline with the bullwhip every
other day. To make the rest time more interesting, hang the spare set on the line next to you and “sext” naked pics to all your friends. Not only will
this force you to rest, but it will be a formative period in your life. Rest at least 48 hours after a day on the rock or a hard training session.

 


This article appeared in Rock and Ice issue 199 (January 2012).


Also Watch

Weekend Whipper: “That scared the sh*t out of me!”