After six World Cup bouldering seasons, Petra Klingler won her first gold last weekend in Haiyang, China at the fourth IFSC bouldering competition of the year. After placing ninth in the qualification round, Klingler turned up the competition, taking third in Semi-Finals and winning Finals over three-time World Cup bouldering champion Akiyo Noguchi, who placed second.
“It took me five minutes after I was finished to hear from the others that I had won,” Klingler told Rock and Ice. “I definitely did not expect that. I thought I was fourth or fifth, but surely not first. And then I called my mum in tears to tell her.”
Klingler plans to visit Rocklands next week “for some fun” and later will compete in the final bouldering World Cup in Munich mid-August. “My goal is surely to get into finals again,” she said.
British climber Shauna Coxsey took bronze for the third time this season, and American Sierra Blair-Coyle placed 17th, her best finish of the year.
On the men’s side, Jongwon Chon of Korea won gold, followed by Rustam Gelmanov of Russia and Alban Levier of France. German powerhouse Jan Hojer missed the podium again by one place, and Czech favorite Adam Ondra took fifth.
American rookie Nathaniel Coleman advanced to Semi-Finals, finishing 11th overall.
Qixin Zhong of China and Anouck Jaubert of France won the men’s and women’s speed competitions also held in Haiyang.
The next IFSC World Cup will be held July 10 to 12 in Chamonix, France, and will switch from bouldering to men’s and women’s lead and speed competitions.
Results (top six):
- Petra Klingler (SUI)
- Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
- Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
- Miho Nonaka (JPN)
- Katharina Saurwein (AUT)
- Melissa Le Neve (FRA)
- Jongwon Chon (KOR)
- Rustam Gelmanov (RUS)
- Alban Levier (FRA)
- Jan Hojer (GER)
- Adam Ondra (CZE)
- Minoru Nakano (JPN)
Watch the Men’s and Women’s Bouldering Finals in Haiyang: