Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Brands

News

​First World Cup Victory for Petra Klingler – Haiyang, China

After six World Cup bouldering seasons, Petra Klingler won her first gold last weekend in Haiyang, China at the fourth IFSC bouldering competition of the year. After placing ninth in the qualification round, Klinger turned up the competition, taking third in Semi-Finals and winning Finals over three-time World Cup bouldering champion Akiyo Noguchi, who placed second.

Lock Icon

Become a member to unlock this story and receive other great perks.

Already have an Outside Account? Sign in

Outside+ Logo

All-Access
Intro Offer
$3.99 / month*

  • A $500 value with 25+ benefits including:
  • Access to all member-only content on all 17 publications in the Outside network like Rock and Ice, Climbing, Outside, Backpacker, Trail Runner and more
  • Annual subscription to Climbing magazine.
  • Annual gear guides for climbing, camping, skiing, cycling, and more
  • Gaia GPS Premium with hundreds of maps and global trail recommendations, a $39.99 value
  • Outside Learn, our new online education hub loaded with more than 2,000 videos across 450 lessons including 6 Weeks to Stronger Fingers and Strength Training for Injury Prevention
  • Premium access to Outside TV and 1,000+ hours of exclusive shows
  • Annual subscription to Outside magazine
Join Outside+

*Outside memberships are billed annually. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. More Details

Petra Klingler works to secure gold. [Photo: IFSC]After six World Cup bouldering seasons, Petra Klingler won her first gold last weekend in Haiyang, China at the fourth IFSC bouldering competition of the year. After placing ninth in the qualification round, Klingler turned up the competition, taking third in Semi-Finals and winning Finals over three-time World Cup bouldering champion Akiyo Noguchi, who placed second.

“It took me five minutes after I was finished to hear from the others that I had won,” Klingler told Rock and Ice. “I definitely did not expect that. I thought I was fourth or fifth, but surely not first. And then I called my mum in tears to tell her.”

Klingler plans to visit Rocklands next week “for some fun” and later will compete in the final bouldering World Cup in Munich mid-August. “My goal is surely to get into finals again,” she said.

British climber Shauna Coxsey took bronze for the third time this season, and American Sierra Blair-Coyle placed 17th, her best finish of the year.

On the men’s side, Jongwon Chon of Korea won gold, followed by Rustam Gelmanov of Russia and Alban Levier of France. German powerhouse Jan Hojer missed the podium again by one place, and Czech favorite Adam Ondra took fifth.

American rookie Nathaniel Coleman advanced to Semi-Finals, finishing 11th overall.

Qixin Zhong of China and Anouck Jaubert of France won the men’s and women’s speed competitions also held in Haiyang.

The next IFSC World Cup will be held July 10 to 12 in Chamonix, France, and will switch from bouldering to men’s and women’s lead and speed competitions.


Results (top six):

Women’s Bouldering:

  1. Petra Klingler (SUI)
  2. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
  3. Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
  4. Miho Nonaka (JPN)
  5. Katharina Saurwein (AUT)
  6. Melissa Le Neve (FRA)

Men’s Bouldering:

  1. Jongwon Chon (KOR)
  2. Rustam Gelmanov (RUS)
  3. Alban Levier (FRA)
  4. Jan Hojer (GER)
  5. Adam Ondra (CZE)
  6. Minoru Nakano (JPN)


Watch the Men’s and Women’s Bouldering Finals in Haiyang: