The Access Fund and American Alpine Club have announced the first-ever recipients of the Anchor Replacement Fund grants. The organizations combined forces to award a total of $10,000 to 17 crags across the country.
“The new grant program was launched earlier this year to address the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents,” the Access Fund says. With many crags sporting decades-old bolts, pitons and fixed anchors, and climbing’s increasing popularity, the need to replace suspect protection is more urgent than ever.
Grantees stretch from Maine to California, ranging from high-traffic destinations like the Red River Gorge, Kentucky, to blossoming locales like Laclede, Idaho. Funding is available to local climbing organizations (not to individuals) wishing to replace bolts or anchors on existing routes. For more information, please visit accessfund.org.
Grant money goes exclusively to hardware purchases; volunteers perform all the labor devoted to replacing gear. Look out for new fixed gear at your local crag.
The deadline for next year’s grant application is September 15, 2016.
Anchor Replacement Grant Fund Recipients (from the Access Fund)
AAC Colorado Climbing Posse
Fixed anchor replacement in Clear Creek Canyon.
Boise Climber’s Alliance
Fixed anchor replacement at Black Cliffs and Short Cliffs in southern Idaho, outside of Boise.
Boulder Climbing Community
Long-term bolt replacement work in Colorado’s Boulder Canyon.
Clifton Climber’s Alliance
Replacement of non-stainless or inadequate hardware at Eagle Bluff in central Maine.
Climbing Association of Southern Arizona
Anchor replacement project on Mt. Lemmon.
Climbing Resource Access Group of Vermont
Anchor replacement at Bolton Valley crags.
East Idaho Climber’s Coalition
Fixed anchor replacement at Massacre Rocks.
East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition
Anchor replacement in the Obed Wild and Scenic River area of Tennessee.
Friends of Pinnacles
Anchor replacement work in California’s Pinnacles National Monument.
Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition
Replacement of high-use top-rope anchors at Cat’s Eye and Bolt Wall at Horsetooth Reservoir.
North Idaho Climbers Alliance
Anchor replacement at Laclede, especially on the Red Wall, Upper Main Wall, Lower Main Wall, and West End Cliff.
Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative
Replacement of rusty, aging fixed anchors throughout the Red River Gorge.
Rumney Climbers Association
Replacement of worn top-anchors on Rumney’s extremely popular routes.
Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Anchor replacement in Big Cottonwood Canyon.
Southern Utah Climber’s Association
Anchor replacement work in Utah Hills climbing areas including crags such as Black and Tan, Kelly’s Rock, Gorilla, Simean Complex, and Soul Asylum.
Telluride Mountain Club
Anchor replacement projects at Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon.
Washington State Anchor Replacement Project
Anchor replacement in the Seattle metro region at areas like Little Si, Exit 38, and Index, as well as in the Cascades at areas such as Leavenworth, Washington Pass, and Stuart Range.