Adam Ondra has claimed the second ascent of Chris Sharma’s First Round, First Minute (5.15b) in Margalef, Spain.
“I first tried it for two days in 2011, but it was summer and simply too hot, ” Ondra told Planet Mountain. “I returned for a day in winter 2012, and then I spent another two days on it last November. I returned now and after a week I finally managed the send.”
Ondra has suggested a grade of 5.15b, and told Planet Mountain that he used the “easier” beta Sharma eventually discovered to send the route.
Sharma established the short, bouldery First Round, First Minute in 2011 after falling near the top of the 25-move route over 50 times.
“On First Round I experienced a real psychological block, I kept failing and I think I fell off the last move more than 50 times,” Sharma told Planet Mountain in a 2011 interview. “At one point I realized that I just had to let go, that I had to move on if I ever wanted to stand a chance in climbing the route.”
Because of Sharma’s intense process with this particular route, he decided to leave First Round, First Minute ungraded, though now the suspicion that the climb was a 9b (5.15b) has been confirmed.
Ondra needed roughly 10 days to complete the second ascent, battling seeping holds and bad conditions during many attempts. When Planet Mountain asked him about the length of the route in relation to the climb’s intensity, Ondra replied:
“Well let me put it like this: it’s pretty short – or pretty long – it just depends on how long you manage to stay on!”
Ondra’s ascent was filmed by Henning Wang, according to 8a.nu. Also, to read Planet Mountain’s in-depth interview with Ondra on his ascent, click HERE.
Check out this video of Chris Sharma attempting the first ascent of First Round, First Minute (5.15b).