Adam Ondra Sends Sharma Project at “Hard” 5.15b
Adam Ondra makes the first ascent of Mamichula, a “hard” 9b/5.15b linkup between Papichulo (9a+/5.15a) and Pachamama (9a+/5.15a) in Oliana, Spain.
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Adam Ondra made the first ascent of Mamichula yesterday—a “hard” 9b/5.15b linkup between Papichulo (9a+/5.15a)
and Pachamama (9a+/5.15a) in Oliana, Spain.
“Craaazy day! It was so windy that I thought it would be impossible to climb,” he reported on Instagram. “In the end, I took down this project of [Chris
Sharma’s]. I think Mamichula 9b (hard) could be a good name.”
Mamichula “links the best of both routes, skipping the rests and adding a hard [V10/11] traverse,” Ondra described on his 8a scorecard. “Sick power-endurance climbing, comp style,” he added. “Definitely hard 9b for me, too pumpy.”
Both Papichulo and Pachamama, two routes established by Sharma, are known as endurance testpieces. Jonathan Siegrist, who sent Papichulo in
November 2015, described the climb as: “One of the most pumpy routes I’ve ever climbed,” in an interview with Rock and Ice.
Ondra had previously climbed both routes. In February of 2009, he made the second ascent of Papichulo, a year after Sharma’s first ascent. More
recently, on February 3, he redpointed Pachamama. On his 8a scorecard, Ondra described Pachamama as
“hard” for the grade, and wrote that it “took a bit longer” than expected, even though he sent the climb after only four days of effort. He also added
that he was “feeling quite fit” after Yosemite, where he completed the second ascent of the Dawn Wall.
Last week, Ondra reported that he chose Pachamama as a project to start his trip off because its power-endurance character made for
great training. We can expect more action from Ondra in the weeks to come. Stay tuned.
“It is my first time [in Oliana] after I did La Dura Dura [5.15c], and four years have passed since
then,” he wrote on Instagram. “Thanks to this break, I feel renewed energy for this place.”
Watch Adam Ondra on the FA of Mamichula (9b/5.15b):
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Cover image: screenshot from video above.