Alex Megos hiked Demencia Senil (5.15a) in Margalef, Spain on November 28—second go. Counting his jaunt to the route’s third bolt in 2013, Megos managed to send the 5.15, established by Chris Sharma in 2009, in a total of two-and-a-half tries.
“BÄÄÄM! Did Demencia Senil (9a+) on my 2nd try today!!!” Megos posted on Facebook. “Once checked it out till the 3rd bolt 2 years ago but felt too hard. Today I checked it out the whole way up and did it in the go after! Huge fight!”
Moreover, the day before, Megos onsighted Victimes del Passat (8c+/5.14c). This was his first 5.14c onsight, although, not his hardest. In March 2013, Megos climbed Estado Critico at the El Pati sector of Siurana, first try—the world’s first known 5.14d onsight.
And today, despite freezing temps, Megos reported on Facebook that he has also sent Victimes del Futur (5.14d). He gave the line two burns after onsighting Victimes del and made the redpoint first try today.
Megos writes: “A powerful lock-off is the crux and the freezing temps made everything harder since everybody struggled with cold fingers. But having a great time here!!!”
BÄÄÄM! Did “Demencia Senil” (9a+) on my 2nd try today!!! Once checked it out till the 3rd bolt 2 years ago but felt too hard. Today I checked it out the whole way up and did it in the go after! Huge fight! Had a great couple of days here in Margalef with yesterday, where I did my FIRST 8c+ ONSIGHT! “Victimes del Passat”!!! Thanks to @_felixfelicius_ for the motivation! @redbulladventure @patagonia_climb @dmm_wales @tenayaclimbing @sterlingrope @entreprisesclimbing #cafékraft
A photo posted by @alexandermegos on
Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharma’s ‘Demencia Senil’ (9a+) | The Italian Climbing Files, Ep. 5
Check out the latest issue of Rock and Ice (#231 January 2016) for a feature on Alex Megos.