A week into his European road trip, Alex Megos already has a string of difficult first ascents and repeats. His
latest FA came on June 17 with Clash of the Titans (9a+/5.15a) at Götterwandl, outside of Nassereith, Tirol. And a few days prior, he made
the first ascent of Riss Kant Direct (8c/5.14b).
“Happy that I got in some climbing yesterday at Götterwandl in Nassereith! And even more happy that the day ended with the FA of ‘Clash of the Titans’
9a+!” he reports.
Clash of the Titans links Juturna (8c+/5.14c), a climb that Megos managed to send on his first redpoint burn the day before, into
the top of the unclimbed Vulcanus project. The two sections are broken by a “poor rest that was enough for me to take a moment to shake
out,” Megos reported, before a 10-move 8a+/V12 crux sequence.
“The moves are powerful and the holds are small,” Megos told 8a.nu. “The crux finishes with
a throw from an undercling to hit the top crimp and then there is easy climbing to the top.”
Megos began his Vertical Life Climbing road trip, with photographer Liam Lonsdale, in Zillertal
last week where at Bergstation he made the second ascent of Jakob Schubert’s Companion of Change (9a+/5.15a). He put
three days of effort into the route, and confirmed the grade at 9a+ (5.15a).
Before leaving Zillertal, Megos and Lonsdale made time to climb the Schlegeis Staudamm (read: massive dam). Megos described the artificial climb as “one
of the craziest multi pitch experiences so far!” and “both funny and a bit scary too. Definitely recommend for the experience!” Megos and Lonsdale
then stopped in Brixen before Götterwandl, and are now off to Céüse. Stay tuned for more Megos action.
“Things are about to get even more sweaty than the past few days. We’ve hiked a lot this last week but we are about to hike even more this next week. Ceüse
we are coming!” Megos reports. “I don’t envy [Lonsdale] for his ‘light’ ~30kg [66 pounds] backpack.”
Happy that I got in some climbing yesterday at Götterwandl in Nassereith! And even more happy that the day ended with the FA of “Clash of the Titans” 9a+! Thanks @dialogue4peace for the patient belays! @redbulladventure @patagonia_climb @dmm_wales @tenayaclimbing @sterlingrope @entreprisesclimbing @cafekraft_nuernberg @vertical.life.climbing @frictionlabs Pic @liamlonsdale
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Another f8c first ascent, this one was Riss Kant Direct … and the second of the day from @alexandermegos. Süd Tirol definitely lived up to its reputation and the Dolomites were a wonderful venue to visit. ?: @liamlonsdale … We have arrived in Friedrichshafen now for the OutDoor trade-show and will be pausing our takeover for the next couple of days. We will have ONE MORE post for you in the morning. We hope you've enjoyed our takeover so far, AM + LL … #visitsudtirol @visitsouthtyrol
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