Alex Megos polished off First Round, First Minute (9b/5.15b) in Margalef, Spain on December 31—on his “last go of the year”—claiming the route’s third known ascent.
“My first highlight of 2015 was Lucid Dreaming, my first ever 8C (V15). With Supernova 9a+/b [5.15a/b] I did my HARDEST first ascent ever.TODAY! On my LAST GO of the year, I did my HARDEST route ever with FIRST ROUND FIRST MINUTE 9b [5.15b]!!!” Megos reports on Instagram.
Chris Sharma established First Round, First Minute in 2011. He fell off the last move of the 25-move, bouldery sport route over 50 times. Because of the intense process and nature of the climb, he decided to leave First Round, First Minute ungraded.
The route went unrepeated until Adam Ondra nabbed its second ascent in February 2014. He took roughly 10 days to redpoint and suggested a grade of 5.15b. Ondra reported that he used the “easier” beta that Sharma eventually discovered to send the route, in an interview with Planet Mountain.
Megos finished 2015 in style and has carried his momentum into the new year. On New Years Day, Megos sent First Ley (9a+/5.15a) and a variation of the route called La Ley Indignata (9a/5.14d)—possibly a first ascent.
And yesterday, also in Margalef, Megos made the first ascent of Hostia, no PUC. Jörg Andreas bolted the route last year but the name came from German climber Felix Neumärker and means, “Damn, I Can’t,” in Catalan. Megos suggested 8c+ (5.14c) for the route.
Watch Chris Sharma on First Round First Minute (5.15b):