Austrians Make Second Ascent of Ozturk and Wilkinson’s Tooth Traverse in Alaska
Austrian alpinists Alex Blümel and Gerhard "Gerry" Fiegl pounced on two brief weather windows in the Alaskan Ruth Gorge to complete the coveted second ascent of the Tooth Traverse as well as the first ascent of Beauty and the Beast (5.11c, A3 2,100 feet) on the Gargoyle.
Unlock this article and more benefits with 40% off.
Already have an Outside Account? Sign in
40% Off Outside+.
$4.99/month $2.99/month*
Get the one subscription to fuel all your adventures.
- Map your next adventure with our premium GPS apps: Gaia GPS Premium and Trailforks Pro.
- Read unlimited digital content from 15+ brands, including Outside Magazine, Triathlete, Ski, Trail Runner, and VeloNews.
- Watch 600+ hours of endurance challenges, cycling and skiing action, and travel documentaries.
- Learn from the pros with expert-led online courses.
*Outside memberships are billed annually. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. More Details
Eventually, the stormy weather lifted and on June 6, Fiegl and Blümel set out for the Tooth Traverse at 10 p.m. The Austrians reached the summit of Sugar Tooth (8,000 feet) the next day around lunch time. After a brief nap, the duo then set off up the Talkeetna Standard (V 5.9 WI5, 3,300 feet) on the south ridge of Eye Tooth (9,000 feet). The alpinists completed the Talkeetna Standard and then bivied below the summit after a 24-hour effort. Next, Fiegl and Blümel spent 12 hours navigating the heavily corniced terrain to reach the top of Bears Tooth (10,070 feet), where they then bivied for the night. “The third day was a long one again,” writes Fiegl. “Rappelling the Russian Route from Bears Tooth and climbing the Swamp Donkey Express [5.9+ A2+ plus some mixed climbing, 750m] up Mooses Tooth [10,335 feet] took about 14 hours, but the day was not over.” The Austrians then endured a long descent through “tricky cornices” in dim light. However, Fiegl and Blümel reached base camp at 9 a.m. on June 10, having completed the second ascent of the Tooth Traverse after roughly 83 hours of climbing.
