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Dawn Wall Update: Adam Ondra Reaches Pitch 15 and Dyno Crux

Valley climbers report that Adam Ondra reaches pitch 15, the crux of the Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d).

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Adam Ondra continues to make progress on the Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d), El Cap, Yosemite. Photographer Jeff Rueppel, who is in the Valley with Ben Rueck and Kevin Jorgeson, stopped by the Meadow yesterday evening to
check on Ondra’s progress. Using a 400mm lens, with Jorgeson explaining the route’s details, they were able to spot Ondra and his crew on what they
believe to be pitch 15, the 5.14d crux pitch of the climb, just
below the Dyno Pitch of the Dawn Wall.

Adam Ondra and crew on pitch 15 of the <em>Dawn Wall</em> (VI 5.14d); they are the bright light near the middle of the photo, on the right side, level with the bottom of Texas Flake and just above El Cap Tower, which can be seen to the left. Photo: Jeff Rueppel.” title=”Adam Ondra and crew on pitch 15 of the <em>Dawn Wall</em> (VI 5.14d); they are the bright light near the middle of the photo, on the right side, level with the bottom of Texas Flake and just above El Cap Tower, which can be seen to the left. Photo: Jeff Rueppel.”>“Which means he’s moving pretty fast,” Rueppel tells <em>Rock and Ice</em>, “but [he] is definitely<br />
    working out moves and probably aiding through them while fixing rope for his crew.”</p>
<p>Ondra started up the <em>Dawn Wall</em> on Monday, following a rainstorm the day before. He had planned to attempt a free ascent of the <em>Nose </em>(VI<br />
    5.14) and to onsight the <em>Salathé </em>(VI 5.13b) as a warmup for the <em>Dawn Wall</em>, but chose to forgo the “warm up” because the <em>Dawn Wall</em>    dries faster than the <em>Nose </em>and <em>Salathé</em><em>.</em> </p>
<p><a href=After a big first day, he reached
the top of pitch 7 (Pitch 1 to 7: 5.12b, 5.13a, 5.13c, 5.12b, 5.12d, 5.13c, 5.14a), and fixed lines back to the ground. On Tuesday, after a late start due to jugging difficulties, he pushed three pitches higher: “…the
fact that we are very inexperienced was obvious right from the beginning,” Ondra told Black Diamond Equipment.
“I’ve done a lot of jugging up in my life, but only sport climbing and always using one GriGri and one ascender. Bad technique resulted in being super
slow and tired after having jugged up the first seven pitches. It was 3:30 p.m. by that time, so I managed to get to the top of pitch 10 until it got
dark.”

In the interview with Black Diamond, Ondra said that pitches 8, 9 and 10 were “quite intense,” especially pitch 10. “A combination of aid climbing, French-freeing
and fear got me to the top without ripping out any of my pieces of pro,” he said.

“I didn’t feel like going for more adventure in the dark, so we just fixed our ropes and I tried pitch 7, 8 and 10 (5.14a, .13d and .14a) on toprope with headlamp. These pitches are not only bold, but freaking hard too! Definitely
no easy grades for these ones—Tommy and Kevin are tough guys! I tried the moves all over again to get some confidence and we got back to the
camp by 12:30 at night. Big day for sure.”

Ondra has not reported his Wednesday activity on the Dawn Wall, but he might have taken a rest day after his big day and late finish the day before.

Jorgeson, who made the first ascent of the Dawn Wall with Tommy Caldwell after seven years of effort and a final 19-day push from December 27, 2014 to January 14, 2015, has been supportive of Ondra’s attempt. On Instagram, Jorgeson
wrote: “Adam Ondra doesn’t need any climbing technique advice. But, the dude is humble and had no problem asking for some jumaring pointers.

“Hopefully his commute up to the crux pitches of the Dawn Wall go smoothly tomorrow so he can focus on the heady and challenging pitches 11-13
(and maybe more!). Go Adam!!!”

Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d) Topo


Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d), El Capitan, Yosemite (TOPO)

Adam Ondra’s progress (as of 10/20/16) highlighted below:

Pitch 1 (5.12b)

Pitch 2 (5.13a)

Pitch 3 (5.13c)

Pitch 4 (5.12b)

Pitch 5 (5.12d) – Anchorage Ledge

Pitch 6 (5.13c)

Pitch 7 (5.14a)

Pitch 8 (5.13d)

Pitch 9 (5.13c)

Pitch 10 (5.14a)

PORTALEDGE CAMP

Pitch 11 (5.13c)

Pitch 12 (5.14b) – Molar Traverse

Pitch 13 (5.13b)

Pitch 14 (5.14d)

Pitch 15 (5.14d)

Pitch 16 (5.14a) – The Loop Pitch

OR

Pitch 17 (5.14c) – The Dyno Pitch (5.14c)

Pitch 18 (5.14a)

Pitch 19 (5.13c)

Pitch 20 (5.13b) – The Canoe

Pitch 21 (5.13d)

Pitch 22 (5.13d) – Wino Tower

Pitch 23 (5.10)

Pitch 24 (5.11)

Pitch 25 (5.11)

Pitch 26 (5.11d)

Pitch 27 (5.11c)

Pitch 28 (5.12c) – Ship’s Prow

Pitch 29 (5.12b)

Pitch 30 (5.12b)

Pitch 31 (5.13a)

Pitch 32 (5.12b)

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