Fabian Buhl, of Germany, has repeated Silbergeier, the 5.14a classic multi-pitch at Rätikon, Switzerland. Buhl adds the perfectly-vertical route to a strong ticklist of boulder problems and single-pitch trad routes.
Buhl began thinking about multi-pitch climbing when he sent Prinzip Hoffnug, a 5.14a, thinly-protected trad route in Austria.
“I have heard a lot about the beauty of this route and the fantastic alpine limestone,” Buhl wrote on his blog.
He traveled to Rätikon with Manu Brunn in the summer, but they were deterred by heavy rain. Before Buhl traveled to Romania for the Petzl RocTrip, he and Brunn almost made a team ascent, according to Buhl’s blog. Buhl had to rework the beta when he returned from his two weeks in Eastern Europe, took a few rest days and gave it another try last on October 2 with Chris Bindhammer belaying him.
Here is the link to my blog about my time in Silbergeier at Rätikon. I could get an ascent of this amazing route last thursday! http://fabibuhl.jimdo.com/blog/ Thanks to @petzl_official @skinourishment @lasportivagram for the great support! #amazingroute #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #alpine #limestone photo credits; Stefan Kürzi
“I reached the ledge after the fourth pitch really fast and had a lot of time to rest and try the crux pitch,” Buhl posted on his blog. “Unfortunately, the clouds went away and we had 30°C [86°F] and no wind up there. My first try ended on the very last move of the crux pitch because I slipped.”
He waited for cooler temperatures in the evening and got back on the route. He fell off on the final pitch when a foothold broke, but sent on his second try.
“Then it was done and I was on top of Silbergeier. I felt relieved and enjoyed a very nice sundown.”
The send was even more impressive considering Buhl fractured his ankle twice in 2013.
Buhl is proving to be a strong climber across all disciplines, adding Silbergeier to his list of first ascents of problems up to V14 and a repeat of Fred Nicole’s Dreamtime (V15), as well as Prinzip Hoffnung on gear.
“For me Silbergeier marks another stage on my way to become an all-around climber,” Buhl said on his blog, “and it was an incredible joy to get adapted to the technical and balancy climbing style.”
Silbergeier, an almost 800-foot six-pitch route featuring technical limestone and long runouts, was first sent by legendary Austrian climber Beat Kammerlander 1993 in just a day.
Watch Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat on the first female ascent of Silbergeier.