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Interview with Ondra on New 5.15c

Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of Vasil Vasil, 9b+ (5.15c), a route he bolted himself five years ago at Sloup in the Czech Republic. Check out this interview with Ondra on his latest testpiece.

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Adam Ondra on <em>Vasil Vasil</em>, 9b+ [5.15c], Sloup, Czech Republic. Photo courtesy of Ondra collection/UKC.” />Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of <em>Vasil Vasil</em><span>, 9b+ (5.15c), a route he bolted himself five years ago at Sloup in the Czech Republic.</span><em><br /></em></p>
<p>It’s a short route which starts with a 7 meter [22 feet] burly 8b [5.13d] section the leads straight into an 8B+ [V14] boulder section. It’s more or less a “one move route” as the key move is at least 8B [V13] in its own right.</p>
<p>Interview:</p>
<p><strong>Hi Adam, congrats on your new route! This one wasn’t nearly as hyped as <em>Change</em> or <em>La Dura Dura </em>…</strong> </p>
<p>The route is not worth being hyped! It is just local piece of rock, which is important for us, not for the world climbing though. And because it is almost a one-mover, the harder it is to keep the things positive and make at least minimal progress. There were many days when I thought I could do it, but in the end I couldn’t do that move even as a single move.</p>
<p>Last weekend, climbing third day on and after the qualification for a local comp, I made a short trip and finally stuck the move. I hadn’t expected that at all, my fingers went numb and I fell on the next move. But I knew it was possible. </p>
<p>Unfortunately, I landed really hard after topping out the first problem in the finals that day, my ankle hurt and I thought the season was over. Fortunately, it is only a lump on the heel and this little injury made me take two days rest and I felt super strong.</p>
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<div>The next day I slipped in the crux and bruised my skin a little, so I saved my energy and skin for today and it paid off! It might be weird that I am so happy after having done such a “piece of shit” (referring to the fact that the route is short, painful and in a dirty place), but it was really important for me. The existence of those holds, the seeming impossibility irritated me for a long time … I bolted it five years ago and I was urged to send it one day … And so I did. Better now than never.</div>
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<div><img src=UKClimbing.com.