Jakob Schubert Gets Second Ascent of Bügeleisen Sit, Austria’s First V15
Jakob Schubert had a strong two days in Maltatal, Austria last week, claiming the second ascent of Bügeleisen Sit (V15)—his first ever V15.
Become a member to unlock this story and receive other great perks.
Already have an Outside Account? Sign in
All-Access
Intro Offer
$3.99 / month*
- A $500 value with 25+ benefits including:
- Access to all member-only content on all 17 publications in the Outside network like Rock and Ice, Climbing, Outside, Backpacker, Trail Runner and more
- Annual subscription to Climbing magazine.
- Annual gear guides for climbing, camping, skiing, cycling, and more
- Gaia GPS Premium with hundreds of maps and global trail recommendations, a $39.99 value
- Outside Learn, our new online education hub loaded with more than 2,000 videos across 450 lessons including 6 Weeks to Stronger Fingers and Strength Training for Injury Prevention
- Premium access to Outside TV and 1,000+ hours of exclusive shows
- Annual subscription to Outside magazine
*Outside memberships are billed annually. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. More Details
Jakob Schubert had a prolific week, laying down hard repeat after repeat of some of Maltatal, Austria’s hardest boulder problems.
In his second trip to the area, located near Malta, Schubert was able to piece together the moves to nab the second ascent of Bügeleisen Sit (V15). The route, put up by Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival, has an added sit-start to the original Bügeleisen (V14), established by Klem Loskot in 2001.
“Obviously it feels amazing doing my hardest boulder so far, and a 8C [V15] boulder, but it’s not really the grade that makes me so happy, it’s the boulder itself,” Schubert told Rock and Ice. “It’s a majestic line—tall, perfect landing, the only problem on the boulder, with just enough in-cut crimps to make such a steep wall climbable.”
Roughly three weeks ago, Schubert traveled to Maltatal for the first time with Kilian Fischhuber where the two projected the original stand-start for two days. On the first day, the top of the boulder was wet, so they tested out the moves to the sit-start. Day two, Fischuber got an ascent of Bügeleisen while Schubert fell twice on the last hard move.
“I came back [last] Tuesday, warmed up and sent the stand start in my first try of the day,” Schubert says.
After trying the sit-start a few more times and falling once near the crux at the top, he was able to complete the second ascent of Bügeleisen Sit—the first V15 established in Austria.
The climb motivated Schubert to continue crushing in Maltatal. On Wednesday, Schubert was able to send four more boulder problems including Wrestling with an Alligator (V13), Power of Goodbye (V13), Unterland (V11) and Pluto auf der Jagd (V12/13).
Nalle Hukkataival on the first ascent of Bügeleisen Sit:
