Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In



Jakob Schubert Gets Second Ascent of Bügeleisen Sit, Austria’s First V15

Jakob Schubert had a strong two days in Maltatal, Austria last week, claiming the second ascent of Bügeleisen Sit (V15)—his first ever V15.

Lock Icon

Unlock this article and more benefits with 40% off.

Already have an Outside Account? Sign in

Outside+ Logo

40% Off Outside+.
$4.99/month $2.99/month*

Get the one subscription to fuel all your adventures.

  • Map your next adventure with our premium GPS apps: Gaia GPS Premium and Trailforks Pro.
  • Read unlimited digital content from 15+ brands, including Outside Magazine, Triathlete, Ski, Trail Runner, and VeloNews.
  • Watch 600+ hours of endurance challenges, cycling and skiing action, and travel documentaries.
  • Learn from the pros with expert-led online courses.
Join Outside+

*Outside memberships are billed annually. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. More Details

Jakob Schubert had a prolific week, laying down hard repeat after repeat of some of Maltatal, Austria’s hardest boulder problems.

In his second trip to the area, located near Malta, Schubert was able to piece together the moves to nab the second ascent of Bügeleisen Sit (V15). The route, put up by Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival, has an added sit-start to the original Bügeleisen (V14), established by Klem Loskot in 2001.

“Obviously it feels amazing doing my hardest boulder so far, and a 8C [V15] boulder, but it’s not really the grade that makes me so happy, it’s the boulder itself,” Schubert told Rock and Ice. “It’s a majestic line—tall, perfect landing, the only problem on the boulder, with just enough in-cut crimps to make such a steep wall climbable.”

Roughly three weeks ago, Schubert traveled to Maltatal for the first time with Kilian Fischhuber where the two projected the original stand-start for two days. On the first day, the top of the boulder was wet, so they tested out the moves to the sit-start. Day two, Fischuber got an ascent of Bügeleisen while Schubert fell twice on the last hard move.

“I came back [last] Tuesday, warmed up and sent the stand start in my first try of the day,” Schubert says.

After trying the sit-start a few more times and falling once near the crux at the top, he was able to complete the second ascent of Bügeleisen Sit—the first V15 established in Austria.

The climb motivated Schubert to continue crushing in Maltatal. On Wednesday, Schubert was able to send four more boulder problems including Wrestling with an Alligator (V13), Power of Goodbye (V13), Unterland (V11) and Pluto auf der Jagd (V12/13).

Nalle Hukkataival on the first ascent of Bügeleisen Sit: