Jakob Schubert had a prolific week, laying down hard repeat after repeat of some of Maltatal, Austria’s hardest boulder problems.
In his second trip to the area, located near Malta, Schubert was able to piece together the moves to nab the second ascent of Bügeleisen Sit (V15). The route, put up by Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival, has an added sit-start to the original Bügeleisen (V14), established by Klem Loskot in 2001.
“Obviously it feels amazing doing my hardest boulder so far, and a 8C [V15] boulder, but it’s not really the grade that makes me so happy, it’s the boulder itself,” Schubert told Rock and Ice. “It’s a majestic line—tall, perfect landing, the only problem on the boulder, with just enough in-cut crimps to make such a steep wall climbable.”
Roughly three weeks ago, Schubert traveled to Maltatal for the first time with Kilian Fischhuber where the two projected the original stand-start for two days. On the first day, the top of the boulder was wet, so they tested out the moves to the sit-start. Day two, Fischuber got an ascent of Bügeleisen while Schubert fell twice on the last hard move.
“I came back [last] Tuesday, warmed up and sent the stand start in my first try of the day,” Schubert says.
After trying the sit-start a few more times and falling once near the crux at the top, he was able to complete the second ascent of Bügeleisen Sit—the first V15 established in Austria.
The climb motivated Schubert to continue crushing in Maltatal. On Wednesday, Schubert was able to send four more boulder problems including Wrestling with an Alligator (V13), Power of Goodbye (V13), Unterland (V11) and Pluto auf der Jagd (V12/13).
Nalle Hukkataival on the first ascent of Bügeleisen Sit: