visualimpact.ch / Hans Hornberger.” src=”https://d1vs4ggwgd7mlq.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/Article-Images/News-Photos/jasper2.jpg” />The German alpinist Robert Jasper has opened an exciting new four-pitch M12 WI5 trad mixed-climb on the Breitwangflue wall above Kandersteg, Switzerland.
Jasper’s new route—Ritter der Kokosnuß (Monty Python and the Holy Grail)—is the direct line next to Jasper’s Flying Circus (the world’s first M10), which he established in 1998 with his wife Daniela.
Jasper had attempted this direct line in a ground-up style for years, but was thwarted by the psychologically demanding effort required to send the crux second pitch.
“The direct line next to Flying Circus had been in my focus for years,” writes Jasper. “Ten years ago I opened the first pitch (M9) – characterized by fragile ice structures and loose rock. My personal goal—to climb in trad style—was shattered because it was just too demanding for me back then.”
On February 13, Jasper arrived at Breitwangflue with partner Rainer Treppte, and set to work on his mental testpiece, which takes the center line through the grand grotto. Jasper recalls that the demanding first pitch felt like a warm-up, which was a good sign.
“It has been a search deep into the ‘sense or nonsense of climbing,’” writes Jasper. “We named the new route Monty Python and the Holy Grail (“Ritter der Kokosnuß”) – a tribute to yet another great Monty Python Film.