Nineteen-year-old climber Laura Rogora has become the first Italian woman to climb 9a+ (5.15a), after ticking Pure Dreaming Plus, in Arco, Italy. Rogora is the fifth woman to climb 9a+ or harder, joining Margo Hayes, Anak Verhoeven, Angela Eiter, and Julia Chanourdie.
“PURE DREAMING PLUS went down faster than I expected and yesterday I could clip the chain of my first 9a+!!” wrote Rogora on Instagram on May 30.
Pure Dreaming Plus is a variation of Pure Dreaming, adding a 10-meter underground start to the 30-meter 9a (5.14d). Adam Ondra has the first ascent of both lines, with Rogora’s ascent standing as the only repeat of Pure Dreaming Plus.
“Pure Dreaming Plus, 9a+, but this time I’m not talking about myself, I’m talking about the world class achievement of @laura.rogora that just sent her hardest route in very few tries,” wrote Climber Stefano Ghisolfi on Instagram.
Rogora also sent Pure Dreaming, commenting on theCrag.com, “Climbed in 9 tries.” She is the fourth person to repeat the route, following Stefano Ghisolfi and Angela Eiter.
When she was 14, Rogora became the second youngest climber ever to send 5.14d. She has also done numerous first ascents in the 5.14+ range, incluing Tomorrowland Extension (5.14c/5/14d), Supercrack (5.14c/5.14d) and Rèveille-toi (5.14d). Rogora is also a force in competition climbing, and has already qualified for the Tokyo Olympics, now set for 2021.