Nacho Sánchez has ticked one of Rockland’s hardest test-pieces,
Monkey Wedding (V15), after less than two weeks in South Africa.
“I came to Rockland four years ago and tried the crux briefly in order to get an idea of its difficulty,” Sánchez told Rock and Ice. “This trip
it was my main goal, so I focused on it from the first day.”
After six sessions, Sánchez linked the notoriously sharp, crimpy crux moves from the beginning. “I think I had a good strategy, getting the upper part
wired before trying it from the start,” Sánchez said.
Fred Nicole established Monkey Wedding in 2002, calling it a V14. The problem has seen four repeats since, including Sánchez’s. After claiming
the first repeat in 2010, Paul Robinson upgraded the problem to V15. Adam Ondra and Daniel Woods confirmed the grade after climbing it in 2011 and
With a month and a half left in Rocklands, Sánchez said he has no specific goals besides enjoying “paradise.” Yesterday, he sent Golden Shadow (V14), but he said he doesn’t know “what to try today.”
After Rocklands, Sánchez said he would like to visit Hueco Tanks and Bishop, but he is unsure when. “I might go to Switzerland when it’s cooler,” he said.
Sánchez has established Spain’s hardest boulder problems,
including Spain’s first V15, Entropia, at Castilla de Bayuela; Insomnio (V15) and Crisis (V15/16) in Crevillente [
WATCH: Nacho Sánchez on First Ascent of Crisis (V16)];
and Cthulhu (V15) on the northern coast of Spain [WATCH: Nacho Sánchez Gets First Ascent of Cthulhu (V15)].
Daniel Woods on Monkey Wedding: