I always had the motivation of opening new routes. But we believed in Reinhold Messner’s opinion that the bolt kills the impossible. So the best route we opened was Vergissmeinnicht (500 meters, 5.11-, A4) in the year 1981 in the Rätikon. At that time sport climbing was swapping over from Yosemite. My hero was John Bachar. Then everything changed. Motivated by Martin Scheel, I began thinking that using bolts was OK, when you use it only for protection and not for aid. I started the new game 1987 in the Rätikon. The routes were Maximum (5.12d), Morbus Scheuermann (5.13a).
How did you develop your strength for the hard ascents you would eventually accomplish?
Tell me about climbing in the Ratikon in the 1990s. You put up some of your most famous routes there such as Silbergeier. How were you going about establishing those intimidating routes?