first repeat of Adam Ondra’s Fugu,”
he told Rock and Ice. The route, at the famous Schleierwasserfall in Tirol, was an old Alex Huber project before Ondra’s ascent.
With Fugu, “I found something exact in my vision,” Hemetzberger told Rock and Ice in a previous interview, “steep but not a roof, endurance but with hard boulder problems and super beautiful rock.” Hemetzberger repeated
the climb after six days of effort.
Afterwards, Hemetzberger did some big wall climbing in Madagascar and crack climbing in Indian Creek, Utah—his first climbing trips
overseas, he said—before returning to Siurana, Spain for “Project Siurana,” Black Diamond’s stewardship project.
In Siurana, he climbed Gabriele Moroni’s La Carriola (8c+/5.14c), the direct start of Lola Corwin (~8c/5.14b).
Hemetzberger then set his sights on an old Stefan Fürst project in Achleiten, Austria. Fürst, a relatively unknown yet legendary first ascentionist, first
attempted the line in the mid-90s. The project remained unclimbed for nearly 22 years.
www.roland-hemetzberger.de and follow him on Instagram @roland_hemetzberger.