Despite seeping holds and high humidity, French climber
Sébastian Bouin has repeated Adam Ondra’s Thor’s Hammer (~9a+ 5.15a) in the Hanshelleren Cave, Flatanger, Norway. He climbed the popular test-piece
after five days of effort this season—he came close to the redpoint last year—and suggested a downgrade to 9a (5.14d).
“I finally take my revenge on this route,” Bouin tells Rock and Ice. “In fact I missed it last summer. I failed after the crux last day of the
trip. This year I am stronger.”
Magnus Midtbø bolted Thor’s Hammer, but the first ascent fell to Adam Ondra in 2012. Ondra proposed 9a+/5.15a for the grade and the climb went
unrepeated until Alex Megos made the second ascent in 2015.
Megos kicked the send-train into gear and Thor’s Hammer saw quick repeats by Austrian climber Jakob Schubert and American climbers Daniel Woods,
Ethan Pringle and Dave Graham, all within two weeks, and Domen Skofic and Sachi Amma sent Thor’s Hammer this spring.
Bouin had to dry holds with toilet paper and chalk just before giving it a burn. “And after you have five minutes before the holds [are] wet again…”
he says. His is the ninth ascent of Thor’s Hammer.
According to Bouin, Ondra, Schubert and Megos redpointed the line using Ondra’s original beta, but those who repeated the climb afterwards discovered an
“I am a little bit disappointed because Adam Ondra gave me new beta [for] the second hard part, and it’s a lot easier than before,” Bouin says. “But it’s
the game, you have to find the easier way to pass.”
With the new beta, Bouin says, “I am not sure it’s 9a+ [5.15a], that’s why I purpose 9a [5.14d]. I spoke with Adam Ondra and he thinks the same.
“Now I go to the real project: Move (9b/9b+ 5.15b/c).
On Move, I can do all the moves. For the moment I try to link the last hard part (the ‘bouldery’ 9a). I will try also the two other 9a’s established
by Adam this spring in a few days. That’s all for the moment.
“Norway is so good!”
Watch Daniel Woods and Dave Graham send Thor’s Hammer in the video below: