Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In



Julia Chanourdie Claims Molasse’son, Her Second 5.14d

The 21-year-old French competition climber Julia Chanourdie climbs Molasse'son (5.14d/9a), at Mollans-sur-Ouvèze, France.

Lock Icon

Become a member to unlock this story and receive other great perks.

Already have an Outside Account? Sign in

Outside+ Logo

Intro Offer
$3.99 / month*

  • A $500 value with 25+ benefits including:
  • Access to all member-only content on all 17 publications in the Outside network like Rock and Ice, Climbing, Outside, Backpacker, Trail Runner and more
  • Annual subscription to Climbing magazine.
  • Annual gear guides for climbing, camping, skiing, cycling, and more
  • Gaia GPS Premium with hundreds of maps and global trail recommendations, a $39.99 value
  • Outside Learn, our new online education hub loaded with more than 2,000 videos across 450 lessons including 6 Weeks to Stronger Fingers and Strength Training for Injury Prevention
  • Premium access to Outside TV and 1,000+ hours of exclusive shows
  • Annual subscription to Outside magazine
Join Outside+

*Outside memberships are billed annually. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. More Details

The French professional climber Julia Chanourdie has climbed her second 9a (5.14d), Gerome Pouvreau’s Molasse’son at Mollans-sur-Ouvèze, southeastern France.

In March last year the 21-year-old climber broke into the 5.14d grade by ticking Ground Zero at the Tetto di Sarre in the Aosta Valley, Italy. She then went on to have an extremely successful competition year finishing in the top 10 at seven of 2017 IFSC Lead World Cup events, including taking bronze in Wujiang, China. She is currently 4th in the IFSC World Rankings for lead climbing and France’s top female lead competition climber.

“Since the beginning Mollasse’son inspired me a lot,” Chanourdie told Rock and Ice. “This beautiful line is about 45° overhanging and even steeper in some sections. It’s kind of bouldery in the sense that the route is divided between a really demanding section (resistance and finger strength) and a pretty bad rest. Actually, it took me a while before even sending the first section, which people estimate to be a good 7C/7C+ boulder problem.”

The main obstacle for Chanourdie was fitting in visits to the crag, which is a considerable distance from her home, to work on the project.

Photo by Jocelyn Chavy.

“As the weather got better and better I finally give myself the chance to [go to] Mollans three times within two weeks. It was getting closer and closer. [As] soon as I realized that I could possibly link all those resistant sections together I finally sent Molasse’son. I still have this sensation of ‘mastering the route’.”

Despite being a competition climber Chanourdie enjoys being outside on real rock and loves challenging herself and progressing on hard routes:

“[W]hen you win this battle against the route (or probably against yourself) you get this sensation of being on the ‘top of the world’ for a moment”

Chanourdie is also branching out his year to compete in some of the bouldering World Cup events. Last weekend she climbed in the first bouldering World Cup of the season in Meiringen, Switzerland, and next weekend she will head to Moscow for the second. She is also considering competing in speed events in addition to the full lead season.“Yeah it’s getting more and more real and I’m hoping to compete in 2020,” says Chanourdie when asked whether she intends to compete in the 2020 Olympics. “Progressively I’m starting my training in all disciplines.”

Also Read

Promise, Hope and Dreams of Olympic Rings