Last week, Jonathan Siegrist ticked off the last hard project of his three-month European tour with Le Cadre Nouvelle (5.14d) in Céüse, France, after seven days working the route.
“I’m super stoked,” Siegrist told Rock and Ice. “It’s a beautiful and varied route and moreover it was a tough style for me, which is always rewarding.”
The original Le Cadre route had a series of chipped pockets, but after a hold broke, Céüse climbing legend Sylvain Millet bolted a bypass to avoid this section. Le Cadre Nouvelle climbs out to the left of the manufactured section after the sixth bolt, entering a powerful and precise dynamic crux, before traversing back into the original route.
Adam Ondra claimed the FA of Millet’s new variation when he redpointed the route in 2010—calling it a 5.14d.
Siegrist said, “The crux is a jump off of sloping edges with really poor feet. Not a huge dyno, but it’s super powerful and requires subtlety.”
Siegrist started his trip in Spain two months ago and sent his primary objective, the classic test-piece La Rambla (5.15a), in Siurana. Riding off the momentum, Siegrist made quick ascents of Estado Critico (5.14d), Era Vella (5.14d) and numerous other 5.14s.
“It’s been the best climbing trip of my life”
“It has been an amazing trip,” says Siegrist. “There were ups and downs of course but overall it’s been the best climbing trip of my life.
“I’m very grateful for it all. I feel like my climbing has really improved in the last year and half and this is really encouraging for me. Hopefully I can continue to grow as a climber! But either way I’m loving life and enjoying the pursuit.”
With only two weeks left, Siegrist hopes to fit in a few multi-pitch missions and some more classics climbs in Ceuse.
“We’re going to the Gran Prix in Monaco and I’m hoping to spend some quality time on Spanish beaches…no more hard projects though, I’m ready for a little break.”
Last year, Siegrist climbed his first 5.15a, Biographie/Realization, in Céüse, France—a Sharma route (2001) considered to be the benchmark for the grade.
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