earlier interview with Rock and Ice. The route was his third redpoint of the grade.
After Papichulo, Siegrist turned his attention to Power Inverter (5.15a)—another Sharma route. He called it a “power endurance test-piece” on his blog. “There is nowhere to hide. From the first hard move to the last I did not rest—I couldn’t.”
He continues: “A pumpy finish and nerve-racking bitter end. Pretty unique and insane features on this route. Many, many underclings. Snappy. I loved it. A great contrast from Papichulo.”
Next it was Duele La Realidad (5.14d), Joe-Cita (5.14d), American Hustle (5.14b), Mind Control (5.14b)—Siegrist checked them off one-by-one. He flashed China Crisis, an “outstanding,” as he calls it, 5.13d, and Fish Eye (5.14b)—the hardest flash of his life.
“It has been a life goal of mine to flash this grade and I thought after watching a few climbers before me that this specific route could be a good option,” Siegrists writes. “I was super nervous, gripping a little too hard, holding tension when I didn’t need to and perhaps overthinking sequences.
“I gradually relaxed but also found an unexpectedly early pump. Resting as I climbed, I neared the finish and finally let go of my expectations, finishing the route elated and so stoked for this milestone.
“Something I had dreamt about and looked forward to for a long while.”
jstarinorbit.com and on Instagram @jonathansiegrist .