Italian climber Silvio Reffo, 26, redpointed Adam Ondra’s Goldrake (9a+/5.15a) in Cornalba, Italy this weekend.
He sent the route after eight days of effort and claimed its fifth known ascent.
“I started to try the route together with Stefano Ghisolfi,” who sent the route on April 3 this year, “[and] since the first attempts I had a good feeling,” Silvio told
8a.nu. “The route begins immediately with very intense climbing, after a partial rest there’s a very hard and technical boulder where I fell many
times. Finally yesterday I managed to climb the route and solve this jewel of Cornalba’s crag.” He also reported that the 5.15a grade felt “soft”
on his 8a scorecard.
A photo posted by Enrico Veronese (@enrychris) on
Ondra was only 17 years old when he claimed the route’s first ascent—on his fifth attempt—in 2010. The line was an old project
bolted by Bruno Tassi to the right of Jedi (8b/5.13d). “…unfortunately two chipped holds on the start, but sick route!,” Ondra reported
following his redpoint. He admitted that he was “absolutely not sure” about the grade and debated between calling it 9a (5.14d) or 9a+ (5.15a).
“I decided to go for 9a+ with this one since it is pretty much my style and the send was [a] really incredible fight,” he wrote on his 8a scorecard.
The route waited over four years for its second ascent, made by the Italian climber Gabriele Moroni in October 2014. He had worked the route for three years. Moroni became the engine on the
Goldrake Italian send-train and on March 20, 2016, Stefano Carnati grabbed the route’s third ascent. After Carnati, Stefano Ghisolfi redpointed
the route on April 3—after only four days of effort—and now Silvio joins the train.
Watch Adam Ondra on Goldrake (5.15a):