Sonnie Trotter, from Canmore, Canada, sent Estado Critico (5.14d) today at Siurana, Spain. Trotter spent six days and around a dozen attempts projecting the route.
On Facebook, Trotter reported: “Project SENT!!! WHOA—WHAT an amazing feeling. I honestly can’t express how shocked and relieved I am.”
Estado Critico, a 40-meter (131-foot) endurance test-piece—neighbor to the famous La Rambla (5.15a)—is located at the El Pati sector of Siurana. Spanish powerhouse Ramón Julián Puigblanque made the first ascent in 2004.
In 2007, Adam Ondra repeated the route and questioned the grade. On his 8a.nu scorecard, Ondra commented after the ascent, “NEVER 9a [5.14d].” But his opinion changed after a hold broke and his subsequent repeat of the route’s direct start, Golpe de Estado (5.15b). Alex Megos confirmed the difficulty after onsighting the route in March of 2013, and the consensus has settled at 5.14d (9a).
“At first, I thought it was going to be impossible for me (as I was barely able to hold the holds),” wrote Trotter, “BUT it is incredible what a motivating climbing partner, Blutrich Ofer, a supporting wife, Lydia Zamorano, and six or so VERY hard fought days of session can do.
“I was so lucky to have perfect conditions tonight, and thanks to Kiff (my stranger belayer) and friends for the positive vibrations.
“What an outrageous climb. It’s Miller time.”
Below, watch Markus Jung on Estado Critico