Stefano Carnati, 17, sent Adam Ondra’s Goldrake (5.15a) this weekend at the famous Cornalba Crag in Northern Italy. It took the Italian just 13
attempts over five days to make the route’s third ascent.
“The send was very unexpected!” Carnati told 8a.nu. “I did everything perfectly, climbed the last slab
calmly and I found myself at the chain of this route!”
He posted on Instagram that he didn’t expect to climb the route so fast.
Goldrake was first climbed by Adam Ondra in 2010, who was also 17 at the time. It had been an open project bolted years before by the late Bruno
The route is Carnati’s first step into the 5.15 grade realm. Late last year he sent his first 5.14d with Coup de Grace in Val Bavona, Switzerland,
also in only five days and making, also, the route’s third ascent. Prior to Coup de Grace he was climbing 5.14c at age 15 and already had
at least 13 5.14b’s under his belt, according to his 8a scorecard.
Gabriele Moroni, who made the second ascent of Goldrake in 2014,
posted a congradulatiory message on Facebook after hearing the news of Carnati’s ascent: “What the New Generation can do! What it took 3 years of my
life … is a normal thing for them … Good job Stefano Carnati!”
Carnati’s climbing roots are set in the mountains surrounding Erba, his hometown in Northern Italy. He hopes to someday move into trad, multi-pitching,
and mountaineering, but for now has sights set on pushing his sport climbing limits.
In 2013, Carnati won the Youth World Championships. Last year, he came in second place.
Watch Adam Ondra climb Goldrake (5.15a):