Stefano Ghisolfi is Perfect on “Perfecto Mundo” (5.15c)
The Italian climber is just the fourth person to send a route of that grade.
Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, Alex Megos. And now Stefano Ghisolfi. With his redpoint of Perfecto Mundo on Friday, December 7, the 25-year-old Italian joins the most elite of clubs in hard sport climbing, becoming just the fourth person to send 9b+ (5.15c).
Ghisolfi broke the news of his send on Instagram: “After so many days trying this route, I can’t believe it actually happened, I just climbed the hardest route I’ve ever tried.”
In all, Ghisolfi spent 32 days at the La Finestra sector in Margalef, Spain, over the course of the past year. He first tried the line in December 2017, and then started projecting it seriously with Alex Megos, after Sharma encouraged the pair to take a crack at his old, never-finished project.
[Also Read Perfecto Mundo Climbed! Megos Makes First Ascent of Old, Futuristic Sharma Project]
Ghisolfi told Rock and Ice that the route divides into three distinct sections, with the middle part constituting the main crux:”10 intense moves, then the single crux move from the mono to the pinch, and then another 10 intense moves to another rest.”
For many of his 32 days on the route, Ghisolfi found himself sending through the mono, only to slip off the pinch. But today things worked out perfectly. He told Rock and Ice about the moment he latched the crux pinch, “It seemed unreal, when I grabbed the pinch I couldn’t believe it because I fell many times there.”
Even still it wasn’t a done deal. “After that it is still hard and possible to fall,” Ghisolfi told us, “but I was concentrated and I didn’t make nay mistakes. I knew the route perfectly.”
Prior to Perfecto Mundo, Ghisolfi had sent four 9b’s (5.15b’s): Lapsus, Andonno, Italy; First Round First Minute, Margalef, Spain; One Slap, Arco, Italy; and La Capella, Siurana, Spain.
More info to come after R&I gets a chance to chat with Stefano!