Adam Ondra is the 2014 World Champion in both bouldering and lead, but at the World Cup event on October 11 and 12 he wasn’t even in the finals. Similarly, Jain Kim, the women’s 2014 Lead World Champion, was left out in the cold—on her home turf.
This past weekend the southwestern portside town of Mokpo, Korea, held the first of three events creating the Asian Tour arm of the IFSC World Cup.
In the men’s division, Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic missed the finals by one move, placing ninth in the semifinals. Jakob Schubert of Austria, the only man to complete the finals route, took gold, his fifth World Cup podium finish this year.
Mina Markovic of Slovenia topped the women’s division in Mokpo for the second year in a row. Last month she scored second place at the World Championships in both lead and speed divisions, and attained a silver medal at the Arco Rockmaster competition in lead and bouldering. Her World Cup gold medals now total 15.
Markovic was followed by the 18-year-old Anak Verhoeven of Belgium, in her third time on a World Cup podium this year. France’s Hélène Janicot captured the bronze in both lead and speed. Janicot had placed third at the Arco Rockmaster competition this year in lead and bouldering, and fourth in lead at the World Championships.
The 2014 World Champion Jain Kim fell early on the final route, ending up in sixth place. Since last July, Kim has had 12 World Cup podium finishes. In June she took gold in lead, bouldering and speed at the Haiyang, China, World Cup. She participated in Vail’s Teva Mountain Games in Vail in 2009, 2011 and 2012, and was an American favorite due to her habit of bowing to the crowd.
Second among men went to Domen Skofic of Slovenia, who had ended up in fourth at the 2014 World Championships. Romain Desgranges, 32, of France finished third, just his second World Cup medal within the last year.
Canada’s reliable Ninja Warrior Sean McColl placed fifth, less than a month after winning the Adidas Rockstars bouldering competition and just a week after some strong outdoor sport climbing, where he sent Tonnerre D’orage (5.14c) at the Col Du Moracaz, France, in just three tries. His fellow Canadian Elan Jonas Mcrae finished in 14thand Shane Messer of Watertown, Massachusetts, finished 31st out of 38.
The tour will go to Wujang, China, this weekend for another dual lead and speed competition. The World Cup circuit includes eight competitions.