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Ten Sleep: US Forest Service Compiles List of Chopped and Padlocked Routes

The list in its current form contains approximately 50 routes affected by actions undertaken by a group of anonymous climbers at the beginning of July 2019.

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Keep an eye out for Rock and Ice’s next issue – out at the beginning of October 2019 – for the inside story on the drama at Ten Sleep.

On July 1 and 2, 18 unidentified climbers chopped and padlocked a number of manufactured and chipped routes in Ten Sleep, Wyoming. Their actions brought to a head a clash of ethics concerning route development practices in Ten Sleep. The anonymous group’s actions prompted the US Forest Service (USFS) to institute a moratorium on bolting new routes in the Canyon while they and local climbing organizations work together to come up with an overall Climbing Management Plan and guidelines for future route development.

Rock and Ice’s forthcoming issue features an extensive, deep-dive feature on the situation at Ten Sleep. Keep an eye out for it ?

On August 30, the USFS published on Mountain Project a list of climbs they have thus far identified as “chopped, padlocked, altered, or otherwise affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb.”

The list, reproduced below, currently includes approximately 50 routes, depending on how one counts lines with shared starts/extensions.

For more detailed information, visit the Ten Sleep page on Mountain Project.


Lower Canyon

Funky Town

— Parliament (5.11b)

— Funkadelic (5.11d)

Bop Gun (5.12a) / Atomic Dog (5.11d); both climbs share the same start

— Jungle Boogie (5.11d) / Jungle Groove (5.11d); both climbs share the same start

— One Nation Under Groove (5.11d)

— Give Up the Funk (5.13d)

— So Ruff, So Tuff (5.12d)

— Shining Star (5.12c)

— Genius of Love (5.12b)

— More Bounce to the Ounce (5.12d)

— Brick House (5.12b) / Brickzilla (5.11d); both climbs share the same start

— Boot HouseBootzilla (5.12c); both climbs share the same start

— White Horse (5.12d) / White Stuff (5.12d); both climbs share the same start

— Mr. Big Stuff (5.11c)

— Super Freak (5.12a)

— Fantastic Voyage (5.11b)

— No Parking (on the Dance Floor) (5.11c)

— Freak-A-Zoid (5.12a)

— Uptown Funk (5.11b)

— Mothership Connection (5.1oc) / Star Child (5.11a)

— P-Funk (5.1oc)

Mondo Beyond

Slavery Wall

— Abolitionist (5.11c); all bolts appear chopped, pockets will with epoxy/glue

— Cakewalk (5.10d); all bolts appear chopped

— Uncle Tom (5.10b); all bolts appear chopped, pockets filled with epoxy/glue

40 Acres and a Mule (5.10c); no bolts appear chopped, but pockets looked to be filled with epoxy/glue—potentially dangerous for the unsuspecting climber

— Emancipation (5.12a); bolts between the roof and the ground (probably 4-5) appear to be chopped

Valhalla

Oblivion

— Road to Oblivion (5.10b) / Oblivion (5.12b); all bolts appear to be chopped and some pockets filled with epoxy/glue

House Wall

Casa Grande (5.10d); all bolts appear to be chopped, many pockets filled with epoxy/glue

Drugs Wall

— Drug of Choice (5.12a); red padlock on the first bolt, reportedly unaltered otherwise

— Heroin Hoedown (5.11a); all bolts appear to be chopped

Firm Wall

— Harder than You (5.12b); bolts chopped, some pockets filled

— Bulletproof (5.12c); bolts chopped

Firm (5.11c); first bolt present, but others may be chopped

Ministry Wall (Spirit World)

— Just One Fix (5.12a); all bolts appear to be chopped

— Burning Inside (5.11b); all bolts chopped

— Knee High Bear (5.11d) / Effigy (5.12c); bolts chopped on KHB, unsure about the Effigy extension

— Thieves (5.12b); bolts chopped

— New World Order (5.12d); bolts chopped, pockets filled

— Stigmata (5.12b); bolts chopped, pockets filled

Jesus Built My Stigmata (5.12b); bolts chopped, pockets filled

The Old Road

Honky Tonk

— Friends in Low Places (5.11d); bolts chopped, pockets filled

— Save a Horse (Ride a Cowboy) (5.12b); bolts 1-5 chopped, pockets filled

— Shotgun Rider (5.11c); bolts 1 and 3 chopped, pockets filled [dangerous]

— Chicken Fried (5.12c); bolts 1-3 chopped, pockets filled

— Hell Yeah (5.11d); bolts chopped

Powers Wall

— Fat Bastard (5.11d); red padlock on the first bolt

— Groovy Baby (5.11b); pockets filled

— Swinger (5.10d); pockets filled

Trump Tower

— Dolt 45 (5.12d); bolts 2-4 chopped

— Cheeto Bandito (5.13a); bolts 2-4 chopped