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Wujiang Lead World Cup Ends Early After Downpour

Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert clinch gold for the season after a wet, final-less World Cup in China.

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A decidedly wet, penultimate IFSC Lead World Cup ended early in Wujiang, China this weekend after finals were canceled due to heavy rain. The event, and ultimately the end-of-season rankings, came down to the athletes’ performances in the semifinals.

Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret and Japan’s Jain Kim finished the semifinal round tied for first place, and so shared the gold medal when finals were canceled. With this unorthodox first place win, Garnbret secured her 2018 first place Lead World Cup season finish—her third in a row!

Jain Kim fighting on some tricky volumes. Photo courtesy of IFSC and Eddie Fowke.

Garnbret’s season win, combined with her second place lead finish and two first place finishes in both bouldering and combined this year at the IFSC World Championships in Innsbruck, clearly make her the woman to beat heading into the Olympics.

The Austrian Jessica Pilz, the 2018 Lead World Champion at Innsbruck, took third place in Wujiang, securing her second place season finish. Kim finished third overall in the end-of-season rankings.

On the men’s side, the Frenchman Romain Desgranges was able to squeak out a win over Austria’s Jakob Schubert. Nevertheless, Schubert’s second place finish earned him a first for the overall season for the third time in his career.  The Italian Stefano Ghisolfi took fifth place in Wujiang, enough to get him silver for the season.

Jakob Schubert pulling the roof on his way to season gold. Photo courtesy of IFSC and Eddie Fowke.

France’s Anouck Jaubert battled it out with the other speed climbing athletes to nab second place in Wujiang, and first place for the overall speed season—her second consecutive title.  Aries Susanti Rahayu of Indonesia just edged out Jaubert for the Wujiang gold, her second of the year. Aspar Jaelolo took the men’s speed gold home for Indonesia as well, nudging out bronze medalist Ludovico Fossali of Italy.

The final IFSC Climbing World Cup of 2018 will take place on October 27th in Xiamen, China. Be sure to follow Rock and Ice for more on the rest of the IFSC World Cup season.

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Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert Win Combined World Championships

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The First Draft of Climbing in the Olympics – Innsbruck, 2018