Accident Prevention

Overenthusiastic climber cracks his skull in a 50-footer

On Thursday, February 12, Wes Walker and Jason Grubb loaded up and drove 11 hours to Cody, Wyoming, for the annual South Fork Ice Festival. The two climbers, from Florida and Texas respectively, were enjoying their first season of ice climbing while living and working in the mountain town of Carbondale, Colorado.

Fractured skull suggests that time is running out on old helmets.

On Monday, October 13, a group of three decided to climb the steep and popular Ro Shampo (5.12a) at the Red River Gorge's Roadside Crag. The leader completed the climb without incident and was lowered to the ground. The second climber elected to tie into the middle of the 60-meter (200-foot) rope, and toproped the overhanging climb on the side of the rope clipped through the draws.

Saturday, August 30 was an excellent day for a romp up Captain Hook, a multi-pitch 5.7 outing at Suicide Rock near Idyllwild, California. Trevor Mathews, 21, and his climbing partner Claire McKay, 22, completed the first pitch without incident.

On May 23, British climbers John Beckwidth and Rob Ellender woke up on Long Ledge, 31 pitches up El Capitan, to damp, whiteout conditions. The Brits had spent the last five days climbing the Salathe Wall (VI 5.9 C2) and were eager to summit, a mere three pitches away.