How To

Eighteen months ago I had an operation on my shoulder for Os acromialis. It was subsequently diagnosed as frozen shoulder.

I first got tendonosis in my right elbow (medial epicondyle) in 2001 bouldering on plastic. Resting, icing and stretching did not work. I tried cortisone, prednisone, a physical therapist who did massage and Ionto-phoresis for a few weeks (which in hindsight was hocus-pocus), with no long-term improvement.

I have numbness in my hands and fingers while sleeping. I've started spending more time bouldering in the gym and increasing the intensity level. I work at a desk, and spend most of my day at the computer.

I recently cut off the tip of my left index finger with a plate joiner. I am a new ice climber. How will this affect my ability to climb? I am 27 years old.

Fractured skull suggests that time is running out on old helmets.

I was pulling on a small side pull in an open-handed grip with marginal feet and heard a loud pop. After that my left ring finger felt unsupported and I couldn't weight it. There was a dull ache between the middle and last joint of my finger, which has since subsided to a slight pain.

On Monday, October 13, a group of three decided to climb the steep and popular Ro Shampo (5.12a) at the Red River Gorge's Roadside Crag. The leader completed the climb without incident and was lowered to the ground. The second climber elected to tie into the middle of the 60-meter (200-foot) rope, and toproped the overhanging climb on the side of the rope clipped through the draws.

I've been diagnosed with a grade 3 AC joint separation from a mountain-biking accident. I'm 42 and a serious social rock climber. I've had one orthopedic surgeon recommend I have the operation and another recommend against it. What say you, Dr. J?

The morning after a day of hard gym bouldering, I noticed a popping or mild locking in my left middle finger when opening and closing it. The feeling soon went away, but came back worse every consecutive morning. I took two weeks off from climbing and my finger was feeling good, so I climbed very moderately two days ago, but this morning the popping returned. Any suggestions?

Two months ago I was working an overhanging crack on toprope. My left hand was jammed in a bottleneck constriction, and as I was reaching up with my right hand for another hold, my feet came off. I fell with full force onto my left arm, but my left hand did not come out of crack.

I have had a subluxation (partial dislocation) of the biceps tendon manually relocated, but it doesn't stay there. The original injury occurred when performing a mantel. It's been two months now, but no healing progress.

I've been doing hangboard and pull-up sessions with added weight. I have had medial elbow tendonosis in the past, and it seems to be returning.