To help make more climbers safer climbers, Rock and Ice has teamed up with Black Diamond Equipment to present the Climb Safe series.These articles aim to answer some of climbing's most common gear-related questions. Here, Kolin Powick, Black Diamond’s Director of Quality, investigates a mysterious harness failure and dives into the effects of chemical contamination on climbing textiles.
Yosemite seems like a fair-weather paradise, but because it sits high in the Sierra Nevada and close to the Pacific Ocean, cold, wet storms can strike any time. Bad weather and lack of preparedness can be a deadly combination. Here’s how you can avoid becoming a Valley statistic.
Rappelling past a knot that links two ropes end-to-end, however, need not puzzle you, nor must you learn this seemingly complicated yet vital bit of ropework the hard way. The following five-step method for passing a knot is easy to master, safe and efficient.
Climb long enough and you’ll have a close encounter ... or several. Of the myriad ways to kill yourself climbing, rappelling is the quickest, but also the easiest to safeguard.
Jason Kehl is high. Twenty-five feet up the Grandpa Peabody boulder, the 60-foot monster testpiece in the Buttermilks near Bishop, he has just pimped a sustained, overhanging V10 section, but isn’t out of the woods yet. The seven-move sloper crux is still ahead.
How you hold the rope is just one aspect of the belay—no more or less important than vigilance, rope management, how and where you stand, and communication.